Topical compositions

ABSTRACT

A method of reducing oxidative damage of skin is disclosed. The method includes applying to oxidant damaged skin a topical composition comprising oligopeptide-1 and niacinamide, wherein the combination of oligopeptide-1 and niacinamide reduces oxidative damage in the skin, and wherein the oligopeptide-1 includes the sequence of caprooyl-Gly-His-Lys-Lys.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation of U.S. application Ser. No.16/898,120 filed Jun. 10, 2020, which is a continuation of U.S.application Ser. No. 15/233,451 filed Aug. 10, 2016 (now U.S. Pat. No.10,722,436), which claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional ApplicationNo. 62/203,155 filed Aug. 10, 2015. The contents of each of thereferenced patent applications are incorporated into the presentapplication by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION A. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates generally to compositions that can be usedto improve the skin's condition and/or visual appearance. In certainaspects, the compositions of the present invention can include, forexample, a combination of ingredients to reduce fine lines and wrinkles,counter oxidative damage, reduce oxidizing agents, increase productionof dermal proteins (such as collagen and elastin), reduce red blotches,reduce pigmentation in cells, inhibit tyrosinase, inhibit melanogenesis,and/or inhibit TNF-α. In other aspects, a combination of ingredients canreduce inflammation, increase moisture, reduce skin irritation, reducedark circles in or under the eyes, inhibit MMP1, inhibit COX-1, inhibitCOX-2, inhibit lipoxygenase, increase elastin production, increasecollagen stimulation, increase laminin production, and/or reducepermeability of skin cells. This combination of ingredients can beincluded in a wide-range of product formulations (e.g., serums, eyecreams, day creams, night creams, cleansers, toners, gels, masks, etc.).

B. Description of Related Art

Aging, chronic exposure to adverse environmental factors, malnutrition,fatigue, etc., can change the visual appearance, physical properties, orphysiological functions of skin in ways that are considered visuallyundesirable. The most notable and obvious changes include thedevelopment of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, increasedsagging, loss of firmness, loss of color evenness or tone, coarsesurface texture, and mottled pigmentation. Less obvious but measurablechanges which occur as skin ages or endures chronic environmental insultinclude a general reduction in cellular and tissue vitality, reductionin cell replication rates, reduced cutaneous blood flow, reducedmoisture content, accumulated errors in structure and function,alterations in the normal regulation of common biochemical pathways, anda reduction in the skin's ability to remodel and repair itself. Many ofthe alterations in appearance and function of the skin are caused bychanges in the outer epidermal layer of the skin, while others arecaused by changes in the lower dermis.

Many factors contribute to skin aging and the appearance of aging suchas the actual age of a person, the amount of exposure to environmentalfactors (e.g., sun light, pollution, chemicals, smoke, etc.), and howwell a person has taken care of their skin. In particular, skin agingconcerns two processes—intrinsic aging, which is related to the naturalaging process and genetic influences, and extrinsic aging, which isaccumulated damage due to environmental factors.

Intrinsic aging process in cells and skin can be related to the loss ofproper function of the skin in maintaining biochemical pathways. Suchpathways can control the oxidative/reductive environment balance in theskin, the regulation of cell division and cellular membrane integrity,and the maintenance of the moisture balance of the skin. As one example,intrinsic aging can be due to the function of the protein Lamin A, whichis important during cell division as it provides the membrane structureof the nuclease. Without functional Lamin A, the nuclear lamina createsan abnormal nuclear envelope lacking structural support. This can leadto an abnormal shaped nuclear envelope which limits cell division. Amuted form of Lamin A, known as progerin, is associated with the diseaseprogeria where patients suffer from accelerated aging, displaying signsof aging in skin as early as 2 years of age, and have a sharplyshortened lifespan. This, and other losses of proper function of theskin can lead to loss of skin firmness, increased skin unevenness,increased fine lines and wrinkles, increased oxidative damage, and dryskin.

Extrinsic factors can include exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays,irritants, and pollution. UV rays, through sun exposure or the use ofultraviolet lamps (for example, tanning beds), can induce oxidativestress, inflammation, production of melanin, and even genetic mutationsthat leads to skin damage. The accumulation of oxidative stress throughfree radical formation can damage skin proteins leading to skin aging,which includes loss of elasticity, loss of dermal proteins, lines andwrinkles, and abnormal pigmentation. Inflammation is also acharacteristic of UV and environmental damage. Inflammation can occurthrough inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α, or enzymes that contributeto the inflammatory pathway such as cyclooxygenase 1 (COX-1),cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2), and lipoxygenase. As inflammation persists,enzymes such as matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP1), matrix metalloproteina se-3 (MMP3), and matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP9) areinvolved in the breakdown of dermal proteins, which allows immune cellsto migrate. This breakdown in dermal proteins such as laminin, elastin,and collagen can lead to skin aging. When exposed to extrinsic factors,the keratinocyte (outermost cell of the skin) releases signalingmolecules, such as α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), andinflammatory cytokines. These hormones trigger melanocytes to producemelanin (melanogenesis). Tyrosine is converted to melanin in a two-stepprocess that includes the use of the tyrosinase enzyme. The productionof melanin can result in variations in the color of the skin. Forexample, a person's skin can have a sallow tone or hyperpigmented spots.Conventional depigmenting agents, such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids,and kojic acid can raise several safety concerns (for example,ochronosis, atrophy, carcinogenesis, and other local or systemic sideeffects) with long-term exposure.

Extrinsic factors can also reduce the moisture in skin. Exposure tochemicals, solvents, washing, cosmetics, fabrics, or dry environmentsare some of the many ways that skin can lose moisture. Loss of moisturecan lead to breaks or fine lines and wrinkles in the skin.

The combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors eventually leads tovisible signs of aging. Current products on the market either do noteffectively address the signs or causes of aging or the effects ofextrinsic factors on the skin and/or they have skin irritating effects.For example, current products may not address loss of skin firmness,pigmentation problems, appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and/or lossof moisture.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have determined a solution to the problems associated withcurrent products to counteract some of the effects of aging and exposureto extrinsic factors that change the appearance and/or condition ofskin. The solution resides in a combination of ingredients including anypossible combination of encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1,niacinamide, Opuntia ficus-indica extract, Prunus mume extract, algaeextract, malachite extract, adenosine, and/or Opuntia tuna fruitextract. The combination of ingredients can be used to create a topicalskin composition to improve overall skin appearance, reduce fine lines,reduce wrinkles, improve radiance/luminosity, improvetexture/smoothness, improve skin tone, improve firmness, improveelasticity, counter oxidative damage, reduce oxidizing agents, increasethe oxidative capacity of a composition, increase production of dermalproteins (such as collagen and elastin), reduce red blotches, reducepigmentation in cells, inhibit tyrosinase, inhibit melanogenesis, and/orinhibit TNF-α. The solution also provides compositions that reduceinflammation, increase moisture, reduce skin irritation, reduce darkcircles in or under the eyes, inhibit MMP1, inhibit COX-1, inhibitCOX-2, inhibit lipoxygenase, increase elastin production, increasecollagen stimulation, increase laminin production, and/or reducepermeability of skin cells.

In one aspect, there is disclosed a topical composition. In one instancethe topical composition includes any one of, any combination of, or allof encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, and niacinamide. Theamounts of the ingredients within the composition can vary (e.g.,amounts can be as low as 0.000001% to as high as 98% w/w or any rangetherein). In one instance the composition further includes malachiteextract. In some aspects, the malachite extract can be an extract ofmalachite stone and comprises a copper complex. In another instance, thecomposition further comprises water. In yet another instance, thecomposition includes 25% to 98% by weight of water. In one instance, thecomposition further includes Opuntia tuna fruit extract. In someaspects, the Opuntia ficus-indica extract can be a ferment of wholecactus plant. In another instance, the composition includes 0.00001% to0.01% by weight of Opuntia tuna fruit extract. In yet another instance,the composition is formulated as an emulsion. In one instance theformulation is formulated as a cream. The composition may furthercomprise one or more ingredients described herein. For example, thecomposition may comprise one or more additional ingredients selectedfrom one or more conditioning agents, moisturizing agents, pH adjusters,structuring agents, inorganic salts, and preservatives.

In another aspect, the topical composition above is formulated as acleanser. In one instance, the topical composition above furthercomprises a skin exfoliating agent. A method of cleansing skin and/orhair is also disclosed. In one aspect, any one of the compositiondisclosed herein are used to cleanse skin and/or hair by applying anyone of the compositions disclosed herein to skin and/or hair, andrinsing the composition off of the skin and/or hair. A method ofexfoliating skin is also disclosed. In one aspect, any one of thecomposition disclosed herein are used to exfoliate skin by applying anyone of the compositions disclosed herein to skin, wherein the skin isexfoliated.

In yet another aspect, the topical composition above further comprisesOpuntia ficus-indica extract. In one instance, the topical compositionfurther comprises a sunscreen ingredient. In another instance, thetopical composition is formulated as a day cream. A method of protectingskin and/or hair from ultraviolet light is also disclosed. In oneaspect, any one of the compositions disclosed herein are used to protectskin and/or hair from ultraviolet light by applying any one of thecompositions disclosed herein to skin and/or hair, and leaving thecomposition on the skin and/or hair.

In one aspect, the topical composition above further comprises Prunusmume extract. In some instances, the Prunus mume extract is an aqueousextract. In some instances, the Prunus mume extract is an extract ofPrunus mume leaf. In one instance, the topical composition is formulatedas a night cream.

In another aspect, the topical composition above further comprises algaeextract. In some aspects, the algae extract can be a water extract ofFucus vesiculosus. In one instance, the topical composition isformulated as an eye cream. A method of reducing a dark circle under oraround the eye is also disclosed. In one aspect, the compositionsdisclosed herein are used to reduce a dark circle under or around theeye by applying any one of the compositions disclosed herein to skinaround the eye, wherein the dark circle under or around the eye isreduced.

The compositions above may further comprise one or more ingredientsdescribed herein. For example, the composition may comprise one or moreadditional ingredients selected from one or more conditioning agents,moisturizing agents, pH adjusters, structuring agents, inorganic salts,and preservatives.

In one aspect, a topical composition is disclosed herein that containsencapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, and niacinamide, andoptionally one or more of Opuntia tuna fruit extract, malachite extract,adenosine, Prunus mume leaf extract, algae extract, or Opuntiaficus-indica fruit extract. In some instances, oligopeptide-1 comprisesthe sequence of caprooyl-Gly-His-Lys-Lys, malachite extract is anextract of malachite stone and comprises a copper complex, the Prunusmume leaf extract is an aqueous extract, the algae extract is a waterextract of Fucus vesiculosus, the Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract isa ferment of whole cactus plant. The amounts of the ingredients withinthe composition can vary (e.g., amounts can be as low as 0.000001% to ashigh as 98% w/w or any range therein). In some instances, thecomposition contains 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight of encapsulatedresveratrol, 0.0000001 to 0.01% by weight of oligopeptide-1, and 0.001to 3% by weight of niacinamide. In some instances, the compositioncontains one or more of 0.00001 to 0.01% by weight of Opuntia tuna fruitextract, 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight of malachite extract, 0.001 to 1% byweight of adenosine, 0.01 to 3% by weight of Prunus mume leaf extract,0.001 to 1% by weight of algae extract, or 0.001 to 3% by weight ofOpuntia ficus-indica fruit extract. In some instances, the compositioncontains an effective amount of one or more of: encapsulated resveratrolto increase antioxidant capacity of the composition; oligopeptide-1 toinhibit tyrosinase, increase production of elastin, stimulate collagenproduction and/or secretion, and/or inhibit TNF-α; niacinamide toinhibit melanogenesis; Opuntia tuna fruit extract to inhibit COX-1,inhibit COX-2, inhibit lipoxygenase, and/or inhibit TNF-α; malachiteextract to inhibit MMP1, inhibit COX-1, inhibit COX-2, inhibitlipoxygenase, and/or to increase antioxidant capacity of thecomposition; Prunus mume leaf extract to stimulate collagen productionand/or secretion, increase laminin production, and/or increaseantioxidant capacity of the composition; algae extract to increase skinbarrier integrity; and/or Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract to inhibitCOX-1, inhibit COX-2, inhibit lipoxygenase, and/or inhibit TNF-α. Insome instances, the composition further contains water. In someinstances, the composition contains 25 to 98% by weight of water. Insome instances, the composition contains glycerin and disodium EDTA. Insome instances, the composition contains 0.0001 to 15% by weight ofglycerin and 0.001 to 1% by weight of disodium EDTA. In some instances,the composition is formulated as an emulsion or a surfactant system.

In another aspect, the topical composition described above containsalgae extract. In some instances, the composition contains 0.001 to 1%by weight of algae extract. In some instances, the composition containsglyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate. In some instances, thecomposition contains 0.1 to 5% by weight of glyceryl stearate and 0.01to 3% by weight of PEG-100 stearate. In some instances, the compositionfurther contains cetyl alcohol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, stearic acid, and1,2-hexanediol. In some instances, the composition further contains, 0.1to 10% by weight of cetyl alcohol, 0.1 to 10% by weight of C12-15 alkylbenzoate, 0.1 to 5% by weight of stearic acid, and 0.01 to 3% by weightof 1,2-hexanediol. In some instances, the composition further contains,triethanolamine, benzyl alcohol, ethylhexyl palmitate, silica, mica,titanium dioxide, xanthan gum, dimethicone, and dipotassiumglycyrrhizate. In some instances, the composition further contains, 0.01to 3% by weight of triethanolamine, 0.01 to 3% by weight of benzylalcohol, 0.01 to 3% by weight of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.01 to 3% byweight of silica, 0.01 to 1% by weight of mica, 0.01 to 1% by weight oftitanium dioxide, 0.01 to 1% by weight of xanthan gum, 0.01 to 1% byweight of dimethicone, and 0.001 to 1% by weight of dipotassiumglycyrrhizate. In some instances, the composition is an emulsion. Insome instances, the composition is formulated as an emulsion for an eyearea. In some instances, the composition is formulated to decrease darkcircles and/or puffiness in an eye area.

In one aspect, the topical composition described above contains Opuntiaficus-indica fruit extract and optionally one or more of malachiteextract, Opuntia tuna fruit extract, and/or adenosine. In someinstances, the composition contains 0.00001 to 0.01% by weight ofOpuntia ficus-indica fruit extract and optionally one or more of 0.00001to 0.1% by weight of malachite extract, 0.00001 to 3% by weight ofOpuntia tuna fruit extract, and/or 0.001 to 1% adenosine. In someinstances, the composition further contains at least one UV absorptionand/or reflecting agent. In some instances, the at least one UVabsorption and/or reflecting agent comprises homosalate, ethylhexylsalicylate (octisalate), oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octocrylene. Insome instances, the composition contains 5 to 15% by weight ofhomosalate, 1 to 10% by weight of ethylhexyl salicylate (octisalate), 1to 10% by weight of oxybenzone, 1 to 10% by weight of avobenzone, and 1to 10% by weight of octocrylene. In some instances, the compositionfurther contains ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer,ceteareth-25, and disodium ethylene dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate. In someinstances, the composition contains 0.1 to 5% by weight of ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, 0.01 to 3% by weight ofceteareth-25, and 0.01 to 3% by weight of disodium ethylene dicocamidePEG-15 disulfate. In some instances, the composition further containsdicaprylyl carbonate, cetearyl alcohol, and dimethicone. In someinstances, the composition contains 0.1 to 5% by weight of dicaprylylcarbonate, 0.1 to 5% by weight of cetearyl alcohol, and 0.1 to 5% byweight of dimethicone. In some instances, the composition furthercontains phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, silica,methyldihydrojasmonate, ethylene brassylate, bisabolol, caprylyl glycol,decylene glycol, and tocopheryl acetate. In some instances, thecomposition contains 0.01 to 3% by weight of phenoxyethanol, 0.01 to 3%by weight of hydroxyacetophenone, 0.01 to 1% by weight of silica, 0.01to 1% by weight of methyldihydrojasmonate, 0.01 to 1% by weight ofethylene brassylate, 0.01 to 1% by weight of bisabolol, 0.01 to 1% byweight of caprylyl glycol, 0.001 to 1% by weight of decylene glycol, and0.001 to 1% by weight of tocopheryl acetate. In some instances, thecomposition further contains jojoba esters and/or behenyl alcohol. Insome instances, the composition contains 0.01 to 3% by weight ofjojobaesters and/or 0.01 to 1% by weight of behenyl alcohol. In someinstances, the composition is formulated as an emulsion. In someinstances, the composition is formulated as a sunscreen emulsion.

In another aspect, the topical composition described above containsPrunus mume leaf extract and optionally one or more of malachiteextract, Opuntia tuna fruit extract, and/or adenosine. In someinstances, the composition contains 0.01 to 3% by weight of Prunus mumeleaf extract and optionally one or more of 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight ofmalachite extract, 0.00001 to 3% by weight of Opuntia tuna fruitextract, and/or 0.001 to 1% adenosine. In some instances, thecomposition further contains glyceryl stearate and acrylamide/sodiumacryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer. In some instances, the compositioncontains 0.01 to 3% by weight of glyceryl stearate and 0.01 to 3% byweight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer. In someinstances, the composition further contains isohexadecane, dimethicone,aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol,butylene glycol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, methyldihydrojasmonate,and ethylene brassylate. In some instances, the composition contains 1to 15% by weight of isohexadecane, 0.01 to 10% by weight of dimethicone,1 to 10% by weight of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, 0.1 to 5% byweight of cetearyl alcohol, 0.01 to 3% by weight of phenoxyethanol, 0.1to 10% by weight of butylene glycol, 0.01 to 3% by weight ofcaprylic/capric triglyceride, 0.001 to 1% by weight ofmethyldihydrojasmonate, 0.001 to 1% by weight of ethylene brassylate. Insome instances, the composition is formulated as an emulsion. In someinstances, the composition is formulated as an emulsion gel. In someinstances, the composition is formulated as a cream. In some instances,the composition is formulated as a night moisturizer. In some instances,the composition is formulated as a night moisturizer for the face.

In some instances, the topical composition described above that containsPrunus mume leaf extract and optionally one or more of malachiteextract, Opuntia tuna fruit extract, and/or adenosine, further containsceteareth-33 and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer. In someinstances, the composition contains 0.01 to 3% by weight of ceteareth-33and 0.01 to 3% by weight of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VPcopolymer. In some instances, the composition further contains pentyleneglycol, isopropyl palmitate, panthenol, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate.In some instances, the composition contains 1 to 10% by weight ofpentylene glycol, 0.01 to 3% by weight of isopropyl palmitate, 0.01 to1% by weight of panthenol, and 0.001 to 1% by weight of dipotassiumglycyrrhizate. In some instances, the composition is formulated as anemulsion. In some instances, the composition is formulated as anemulsion gel. In some instances, the composition is formulated as acream. In some instances, the composition is formulated as a nightmoisturizer. In some instances, the composition is formulated as a nightmoisturizer for the face.

In some instances, the topical composition described above that containsPrunus mume leaf extract and optionally one or more of malachiteextract, Opuntia tuna fruit extract, and/or adenosine, further containsisocetyl stearate, cetyl alcohol, cetyl esters, and caprylyl methicone.In some instances, the composition contains 0.1 to 5% by weight ofisocetyl stearate, 0.1 to 5% by weight of cetyl alcohol, 0.1 to 5% byweight of cetyl esters, and 0.1 to 5% by weight of caprylyl methicone.In some instances, the composition further contains hydroxyacetophenone,stearic acid, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol, triethanolamine,ceteareth-20, caprylyl glycol, behenyl alcohol, titanium dioxide,decylene glycol, tocopheryl acetate, polysorbate 80, andacrylates/C10-13 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. In some instances, thecomposition contains 0.01 to 3% by weight of hydroxyacetophenone, 0.01to 3% by weight of stearic acid, 0.01 to 3% by weight of PEG-100stearate, 0.01 to 3% by weight of arachidyl alcohol, 0.01 to 3% byweight of triethanolamine, 0.01 to 1% by weight of ceteareth-20, 0.01 to1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, 0.01 to 1% by weight of behenylalcohol, 0.01 to 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, 0.001 to 1% by weightof decylene glycol, 0.001 to 1% by weight of tocopheryl acetate, 0.001to 1% by weight of polysorbate 80, and 0.001 to 1% by weight ofacrylates/C10-13 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. In some instances, thecomposition is formulated as an emulsion. In some instances, thecomposition is formulated as an emulsion gel. In some instances, thecomposition is formulated as a cream. In some instances, the compositionis formulated as a night moisturizer. In some instances, the compositionis formulated as a night moisturizer for the face.

In one aspect, the topical composition described above optionallycontains one or more of malachite extract and/or Opuntia tuna fruitextract. In some instances, the composition optionally contains one ormore of 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight of malachite extract and/or 0.00001 to3% by weight of Opuntia tuna fruit extract. In some instances, thecomposition further contains acrylates copolymer, magnesium aluminumsilicate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate,cocamidopropyl betaine, PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, sodiumlaureth sulfate, and coco-glucoside. In some instances, the compositioncontains 1 to 10% by weight of acrylates copolymer, 0.01 to 3% by weightof magnesium aluminum silicate, 1 to 10% by weight of sodium stearoylglutamate, 1 to 10% by weight of sodium cocoyl glutamate, 1 to 10% byweight of cocamidopropyl betaine, 1 to 10% by weight of PPG-2hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, 0.01 to 3% by weight of sodium laurethsulfate, and 0.01 to 3% by weight of coco-glucoside. In some instances,the composition further contains cetearyl alcohol, propanediol,hydrolyzed corn starch, and potassium hydroxide. In some instances, thecomposition contains 1 to 10% by weight of cetearyl alcohol, 1 to 10% byweight of propanediol, 0.1 to 5% by weight of hydrolyzed corn starch,and 0.01 to 3% by weight of potassium hydroxide. In some instances, thecomposition further contains methyldihydrojasmonate, ethylenebrassylate, sodium chloride, Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) wax, citricacid, titanium dioxide, lactose, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, andtetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. In some instances, thecomposition contains 0.01 to 1% by weight of methyldihydrojasmonate,0.01 to 1% by weight of ethylene brassylate, 0.01 to 1% by weight ofsodium chloride, 0.01 to 1% by weight of Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba)wax, 0.01 to 1% by weight of citric acid, 0.01 to 1% by weight oftitanium dioxide, 0.001 to 1% by weight of lactose, 0.001 to 1% byweight of hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, and 0.001 to 1% by weight oftetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. In some instances, thecomposition is formulated as a surfactant system. In some instances, thecomposition is formulated as a cleanser. In some instances, thecomposition is formulated as a facial cleanser.

In another aspect, the topical composition disclosed above furthercontains acrylates copolymer, TEA-lauryl sulfate, cocamidopropylbetaine, and PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide and optionallycontains one or more of malachite extract and/or Opuntia tuna fruitextract and. In some instances, the composition optionally contains oneor more of 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight of malachite extract and/or 0.00001to 3% by weight of Opuntia tuna fruit extract. In some instances, thecomposition contains 1 to 10% by weight of acrylates copolymer, 5 to 20%by weight of TEA-lauryl sulfate, 0.1 to 5% by weight of cocamidopropylbetaine, and 0.1 to 5% by weight of PPG-2 hydroxyethylcoco/isostearamide. In some instances, the composition further containspropanediol and triethanolamine. In some instances, the compositioncontains 1 to 10% by weight of propanediol and 0.1 to 5% by weight oftriethanolamine. In some instances, the composition further containsCopernicia cerifera (Carnauba) wax, sodium chloride, lactose, andhydroxypropyl cyclodextrin. In some instances, the composition contains0.01 to 1% by weight of Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) wax, 0.01 to 1%by weight of sodium chloride, 0.001 to 1% by weight of lactose, and0.001 to 1% by weight of hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin. In some instances,the composition is formulated as a surfactant system. In some instances,the composition is formulated as a cleanser. In some instances, thecomposition is formulated as a facial cleanser.

Methods of using the compositions disclosed herein are also disclosed.In one aspect, a method is disclosed of improving a condition orappearance of skin and/or hair by applying any of the compositionsdisclosed herein to skin and/or hair in need thereof. In some instances,the condition or appearance of skin to be improved is the appearance ofa fine line and/or wrinkle and the appearance of a fine line and/orwrinkle of the skin is reduced. In some instances, the condition orappearance of skin improved is a brightening of the skin and thebrightness of the skin is increased. In some instances, the condition orappearance of skin improved is reduction of pigmentation of the skin andpigmentation of skin is reduced. In some instances, the condition orappearance of skin improved is reduction of a red blotch on skin and thered blotch on the skin is reduced. In some instances, the condition orappearance of skin improved is reduction of a dark circle under oraround the eye, wherein the dark circle under or around the eye isreduced. In some instances, the condition or appearance of skin improvedis the overall skin appearance and the overall skin appearance isimproved. In some instances, the condition or appearance of skinimproved is radiance/luminosity and the radiance/luminosity is improved.In some instances, the condition or appearance of skin improved istexture/smoothness and the texture/smoothness is improved. In someinstances, the condition or appearance of skin improved is the skin toneand the skin tone is improved. In some instances, the condition orappearance of skin improved is firmness and the firmness is improved. Insome instances, the condition or appearance of skin improved iselasticity and the elasticity is improved.

In another one aspect, a method is disclosed of treating skin and/orhair, by applying any of the compositions disclosed herein to skinand/or hair, wherein melanogenesis is reduced, tyrosinase is reduced,collagen stimulation is increased, elastin production is increased,inflammation is reduced, TNF-α is reduced, an oxidant is reduced,oxidative damage of the skin and/or hair by an oxidant is prevented,MMP1 is inhibited, COX-1 is inhibited, COX-2 is inhibited, lipoxygenaseis inhibited, laminin production is increased, skin permeability isreduced, skin and/or hair is moisturized.

In one aspect, a method is disclosed of cleansing skin and/or hair, byapplying any of the compositions disclosed herein to skin and/or hair,and rinsing the composition off of the skin and/or hair.

In another one aspect, a method is disclosed of protecting skin and/orhair from ultraviolet light, by applying any of the compositionsdisclosed herein to skin and/or hair, and leaving the composition on theskin and/or hair.

Methods of use for the compositions disclosed herein are also disclosed.In some aspects, a method is disclosed of improving a condition orappearance of skin and/or hair, by applying any one of the compositiondisclosed herein to skin and/or hair in need thereof. In one aspect, anyone of the compositions disclosed herein are applied to skin and/or hairand the composition is left on the skin and/or hair, or alternativelyremoved from the skin and/or hair after a period of time. In anotheraspect, the compositions disclosed are used to reduce the appearance ofa fine line and/or wrinkle, by applying any one of the compositiondisclosed herein to skin, wherein the appearance of a fine line and/orwrinkle of the skin is reduced. In yet another aspect, the compositionsdisclosed herein are used to moisturize skin and/or hair by applying anyone of the compositions disclosed herein to skin and/or hair, whereinthe skin and/or hair is moisturized.

Methods for using the compositions disclosed herein to brighten skin arealso disclosed. In one aspect, the compositions disclosed herein areused to brighten skin by applying any one of the compositions disclosedherein to skin, wherein the brightness of the skin is increased. Inanother aspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used to reducepigmentation of skin by applying any one of the compositions disclosedherein to skin, wherein pigmentation of skin is reduced. In yet anotheraspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used to reduce a redblotch on skin by applying any one of the compositions disclosed hereinto skin, wherein the red blotch on the skin is reduced. In one aspect,the compositions disclosed herein are used to reduce a dark circle underor around the eye by applying any one of the compositions disclosedherein to skin around the eye, wherein the dark circle under or aroundthe eye is reduced. In another aspect, the compositions disclosed hereinare used to inhibit melanogenesis in skin by applying any one of thecompositions disclosed herein to skin, wherein melanogenesis in the skinis reduced. In yet another aspect, the compositions disclosed herein areused to inhibit tyrosinase in skin by applying any one of thecompositions disclosed herein to skin, wherein tyrosinase in the skin isreduced.

Methods for using the compositions disclosed herein to increaseproduction of proteins in the skin are also disclosed. In one aspect,the compositions disclosed herein are used to increase collagenstimulation in skin by applying any one of the compositions disclosedherein to skin, wherein collagen stimulation in skin is increased. Inanother aspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used to increaseelastin production in skin by applying any one of the compositionsdisclosed herein to skin, wherein elastin production is increased. Inyet another aspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used toincrease laminin production in the skin by applying any one of thecompositions disclosed herein to skin, wherein laminin production isincreased.

Methods for using the compositions disclosed herein to provideadditional benefits to the skin or hair are also disclosed. In oneaspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used to reduceinflammation of skin by applying any one of the compositions disclosedherein to skin, wherein inflammation in the skin is reduced. In anotheraspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used to inhibit TNF-α inskin by applying any one of the compositions disclosed herein to skin,wherein TNF-α in the skin is reduced. In yet another aspect, thecompositions disclosed herein are used to reduce an oxidant on and/or inthe skin and/or hair by applying any one of the compositions disclosedherein to skin and/or hair, wherein the oxidant is reduced. In oneaspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used to prevent oxidativedamage to skin and/or hair by an oxidant by applying any one of thecompositions disclosed herein to skin and/or hair, wherein an oxidant isreduced, and wherein oxidative damage to the skin and/or hair by theoxidant is prevented. In another aspect, the compositions disclosedherein are used to inhibit MMP1 in skin by applying any one of thecompositions disclosed herein to skin, wherein MMP1 is inhibited in theskin. In another aspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used toinhibit COX-1 in skin by applying any one of the compositions disclosedherein to skin, wherein COX-1 is inhibited in the skin. In yet anotheraspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used to inhibit COX-2 inskin by applying any one of the compositions disclosed herein to skin,wherein COX-2 is inhibited in the skin. In one aspect, the compositionsdisclosed herein are used to inhibit lipoxygenase in skin by applyingany one of the compositions disclosed herein to skin, whereinlipoxygenase is inhibited in the skin. In another aspect, thecompositions disclosed herein are used to reduce skin permeability byapplying any one of the compositions disclosed herein to skin, whereinskin permeability is reduced.

In particular aspects, the compositions of the present invention areformulated as a topical skin and/or hair composition. The compositioncan have a dermatologically acceptable vehicle or carrier for thecompounds, compositions, and extracts. The composition can furtherinclude a moisturizing agent or a humectant, a surfactant, a siliconecontaining compounds, a UV agent, an oil, and/or other ingredientsidentified in this specification or those known in the art. Thecomposition can be a lotion, cream, gel, serum, emulsion (e.g.,oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone,water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-silicone,etc.), solutions (e.g., aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solutions), anhydrousbases (e.g., lipstick or a powder), ointments, milk, paste, aerosol,solid forms, eye jellies, etc. The composition can be in powdered form(e.g., dried, lyophilized, particulate, etc.). The composition can beformulated for topical skin application at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, ormore times a day during use. In other aspects of the present invention,compositions can be storage stable or color stable, or both. It is alsocontemplated that the viscosity of the composition can be selected toachieve a desired result, e.g., depending on the type of compositiondesired, the viscosity of such composition can be from about 1 cps towell over 1 million cps or any range or integer derivable therein (e.g.,2 cps, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100,200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000,6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 20000, 30000, 40000, 50000, 60000, 70000,80000, 90000, 100000, 200000, 300000, 400000, 500000, 600000, 700000,800000, 900000, 1000000, 2000000, 3000000, 4000000, 5000000, 10000000,cps, etc., as measured on a Brookfield Viscometer using a TC spindle at2.5 rpm at 25° C.).

The compositions of the present invention can also be modified to have adesired oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) value. In certainnon-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present invention or thecomponent or extracts thereof identified throughout this specificationcan be modified to have an ORAC value per mg of at least about 1, 2, 3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22,23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95,100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000,5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 15000, 20000, 30000, 50000, 100000or more or any range derivable therein.

The compositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6 toabout 9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,11, 12, 13, or 14. The compositions can include a triglyceride.Non-limiting examples include small, medium, and large chaintriglycerides. In certain aspects, the triglyceride is a medium chaintriglyceride (e.g., caprylic capric triglyceride). The compositions canalso include preservatives. Non-limiting examples of preservativesinclude methylparaben, propylparaben, or a mixture of methylparaben andpropylparaben. In some aspects, the preservative is not a paraben.

Compositions of the present invention can have UVA and UVB absorptionproperties. The compositions can have an sun protection factor (SPF) of2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45,50, 55, 60, or more, or any integer or derivative therein. Thecompositions can be sunscreen lotions, sprays, or creams.

The compositions of the present invention can also include any one of,any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients:water, a chelating agent, a moisturizing agent, a preservative, athickening agent, a silicone containing compound, an essential oil, astructuring agent, a vitamin, a pharmaceutical ingredient, or anantioxidant, or any combination of such ingredients or mixtures of suchingredients. In certain aspects, the composition can include at leasttwo, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, or all of theseadditional ingredients identified in the previous sentence. Non-limitingexamples of these additional ingredients are identified throughout thisspecification and are incorporated into this section by reference. Theamounts of such ingredients can range from 0.0001% to 99.9% by weight orvolume of the composition, or any integer or range in between asdisclosed in other sections of this specification, which areincorporated into this paragraph by reference.

Kits that include the compositions of the present invention are alsocontemplated. In certain embodiments, the composition is comprised in acontainer. The container can be a bottle, dispenser, or package. Thecontainer can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition. Incertain aspects, the compositions is dispensed in a spray, mist, dollop,or liquid. The container can include indicia on its surface. The indiciacan be a word, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

It is also contemplated that the compositions disclosed throughout thisspecification can be used as a leave-on or rinse-off composition. By wayof example, a leave-on composition can be one that is topically appliedto skin and remains on the skin for a period of time (e.g., at least 5,6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, or 30 minutes, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24 hours,or overnight or throughout the day). Alternatively, a rinse-offcomposition can be a product that is intended to be applied to the skinand then removed or rinsed from the skin (e.g., with water) within aperiod of time such as less than 5, 4, 3, 2, or 1 minute. An example ofa rinse of composition can be a skin cleanser, shampoo, conditioner, orsoap. An example of a leave-on composition can be a skin moisturizer,sunscreen, mask, overnight cream, or a day cream.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In one embodiment, compositions of the present invention can bepharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant or can have pleasant tactileproperties. “Pharmaceutically elegant,” “cosmetically elegant,” and/or“pleasant tactile properties” describes a composition that hasparticular tactile properties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g.,compositions that are not too watery or greasy, compositions that have asilky texture, compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.).Pharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant can also relate to thecreaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to the moistureretaining properties of the composition.

Also contemplated is a product comprising a composition of the presentinvention. In non-limiting aspects, the product can be a cosmeticproduct. The cosmetic product can be those described in other sectionsof this specification or those known to a person of skill in the art.Non-limiting examples of products include a moisturizer, a cream, alotion, a skin softener, a gel, a wash, a cleanser, a foundation, anight cream, a day cream, and eye cream, a lipstick, a cleanser, atoner, a sunscreen, a mask, an anti-aging product, a deodorant, anantiperspirant, a perfume, a cologne, etc.

Also disclosed are the following Embodiments 1 to 97 of the presentinvention. Embodiment 1 is a method of improving a condition orappearance of skin and/or hair, comprising applying a topicalcomposition comprising encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, andniacinamide, and optionally one or more of Opuntia tuna fruit extract,malachite extract, adenosine, Prunus mume leaf extract, algae extract,or Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract to skin and/or hair in needthereof. Embodiment 2 is the method of Embodiment 1, wherein thecondition or appearance of skin to be improved is the appearance of afine line and/or wrinkle, and further comprising wherein the appearanceof a fine line and/or wrinkle of the skin is reduced. Embodiment 3 isthe method of any of Embodiments 1 to 2, wherein the condition orappearance of skin to be improved is a brightening of the skin, andfurther comprising wherein the brightness of the skin is increased.Embodiment 4 is the method of any of Embodiments 1 to 3, wherein thecondition or appearance of skin to be improved is reduction ofpigmentation of the skin, and further comprising wherein pigmentation ofskin is reduced. Embodiment 5 is the method of any of Embodiments 1 to4, wherein the condition or appearance of skin to be improved isreduction of a red blotch on skin, and further comprising wherein thered blotch on the skin is reduced. Embodiment 6 is the method of any ofEmbodiments 1 to 5, wherein the condition or appearance of skin to beimproved is reduction of a dark circle under or around the eye, andfurther comprising wherein the dark circle under or around the eye isreduced. Embodiment 7 is the method of any of Embodiments 1 to 6,wherein melanogenesis is reduced, tyrosinase is reduced, collagenstimulation is increased, elastin production is increased, inflammationis reduced, TNF-α is reduced, oxidative damage of the skin and/or hairis prevented, MMP1 is inhibited, COX-1 is inhibited, COX-2 is inhibited,lipoxygenase is inhibited, laminin production is increased, skinpermeability is reduced, and/or skin and/or hair is moisturized.Embodiment 8 is the method of Embodiment 7, wherein the encapsulatedresveratrol increases antioxidant capacity of the composition;oligopeptide-1 inhibits tyrosinase, increases production of elastin,stimulates collagen production and/or secretion, and/or inhibits TNF-α;niacinamide inhibits melanogenesis; Opuntia tuna fruit extract inhibitsCOX-1, inhibits COX-2, inhibits lipoxygenase, and/or inhibits TNF-α;malachite extract inhibits MMP1, inhibits COX-1, inhibits COX-2,inhibits lipoxygenase, and/or increases antioxidant capacity of thecomposition; Prunus mume leaf extract stimulates collagen productionand/or secretion, increases laminin production, and/or increasesantioxidant capacity of the composition; algae extract increases skinbarrier integrity; and/or Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract inhibitsCOX-1, inhibits COX-2, inhibits lipoxygenase, and/or inhibits TNF-α.Embodiment 9 is the method of any of Embodiments 1 to 8, wherein theoligopeptide-1 comprises the sequence of caprooyl-Gly-His-Lys-Lys, themalachite extract is an extract of malachite stone and comprises acopper complex, the Prunus mume leaf extract is an aqueous extract, thealgae extract is a water extract of Fucus vesiculosus, the Opuntiaficus-indica fruit extract is a ferment of whole cactus plant.Embodiment 10 is the method of any of Embodiments 1 to 9, wherein thetopical composition comprises 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight of encapsulatedresveratrol, 0.0000001 to 0.01% by weight of oligopeptide-1, and 0.001to 3% by weight of niacinamide. Embodiment 11 is the method of any ofEmbodiments 1 to 10, wherein the topical composition comprises one ormore of 0.00001 to 0.01% by weight of Opuntia tuna fruit extract,0.00001 to 0.1% by weight of malachite extract, 0.001 to 1% by weight ofadenosine, 0.01 to 3% by weight of Prunus mume leaf extract, 0.001 to 1%by weight of algae extract, or 0.001 to 3% by weight of Opuntiaficus-indica fruit extract. Embodiment 12 is the method of any ofEmbodiments 1 to 11, wherein the skin and/or hair is cleansed,comprising applying the topical composition to skin and/or hair, andrinsing the composition off of the skin and/or hair. Embodiment 13 isthe method of any of Embodiments 1 to 11, wherein the skin and/or hairis protected from ultraviolet light, comprising applying the topicalcomposition to skin and/or hair, and leaving the composition on the skinand/or hair. Embodiment 14 is a topical composition comprisingencapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, and niacinamide, andoptionally one or more of Opuntia tuna fruit extract, malachite extract,adenosine, Prunus mume leaf extract, algae extract, or Opuntiaficus-indica fruit extract. Embodiment 15 is the composition ofEmbodiment 14, wherein the oligopeptide-1 comprises the sequence ofcaprooyl-Gly-His-Lys-Lys, the malachite extract is an extract ofmalachite stone and comprises a copper complex, the Prunus mume leafextract is an aqueous extract, the algae extract is a water extract ofFucus vesiculosus, the Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract is a fermentof whole cactus plant. Embodiment 16 is the composition of any ofEmbodiments 14 to 15, comprising 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight ofencapsulated resveratrol, 0.0000001 to 0.01% by weight ofoligopeptide-1, and 0.001 to 3% by weight of niacinamide. Embodiment 17is the composition of any of Embodiments 14 to 16, comprising one ormore of 0.00001 to 0.01% by weight of Opuntia tuna fruit extract,0.00001 to 0.1% by weight of malachite extract, 0.001 to 1% by weight ofadenosine, 0.01 to 3% by weight of Prunus mume leaf extract, 0.001 to 1%by weight of algae extract, or 0.001 to 3% by weight of Opuntiaficus-indica fruit extract. Embodiment 18 is the composition of any ofEmbodiments 14 to 17, wherein the composition comprises an effectiveamount of one or more of: encapsulated resveratrol to increaseantioxidant capacity of the composition; oligopeptide-1 to inhibittyrosinase, increase production of elastin, stimulate collagenproduction and/or secretion, and/or inhibit TNF-α; niacinamide toinhibit melanogenesis; Opuntia tuna fruit extract to inhibit COX-1,inhibit COX-2, inhibit lipoxygenase, and/or inhibit TNF-α; malachiteextract to inhibit MMP1, inhibit COX-1, inhibit COX-2, inhibitlipoxygenase, and/or to increase antioxidant capacity of thecomposition; Prunus mume leaf extract to stimulate collagen productionand/or secretion, increase laminin production, and/or increaseantioxidant capacity of the composition; algae extract to increase skinbarrier integrity; and/or Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract to inhibitCOX-1, inhibit COX-2, inhibit lipoxygenase, and/or inhibit TNF-α.Embodiment 19 is the composition of any of Embodiments 14 to 18, furthercomprising water. Embodiment 20 is the composition of any of Embodiments14 to 19, comprising 25 to 98% by weight of water. Embodiment 21 is thecomposition of any of Embodiments 14 to 20, further comprising glycerinand disodium EDTA. Embodiment 22 is the composition of Embodiment 21,comprising 0.0001 to 15% by weight of glycerin and 0.001 to 1% by weightof disodium EDTA. Embodiment 23 is the composition of any of Embodiments14 to 22, wherein the composition is formulated as an emulsion or asurfactant system. Embodiment 24 is the composition of any ofEmbodiments 14 to 23, wherein the composition comprises algae extract.Embodiment 25 is the composition of Embodiment 24, comprising 0.001 to1% by weight of algae extract. Embodiment 26 is the composition of anyof Embodiments 14 to 25, further comprising glyceryl stearate andPEG-100 stearate. Embodiment 27 is the composition of Embodiment 26,comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of glyceryl stearate and 0.01 to 3% byweight of PEG-100 stearate. Embodiment 28 is the composition of any ofEmbodiments 14 to 27, further comprising cetyl alcohol, C12-15 alkylbenzoate, stearic acid, and 1,2-hexanediol. Embodiment 29 is thecomposition of Embodiment 28, comprising 0.1 to 10% by weight of cetylalcohol, 0.1 to 10% by weight of C12-15 alkyl benzoate, 0.1 to 5% byweight of stearic acid, and 0.01 to 3% by weight of 1,2-hexanediol.Embodiment 30 is the composition of any of Embodiments 14 to 29, furthercomprising triethanolamine, benzyl alcohol, ethylhexyl palmitate,silica, mica, titanium dioxide, xanthan gum, dimethicone, anddipotassium glycyrrhizate. Embodiment 31 is the composition ofEmbodiment 30, comprising 0.01 to 3% by weight of triethanolamine, 0.01to 3% by weight of benzyl alcohol, 0.01 to 3% by weight of ethylhexylpalmitate, 0.01 to 3% by weight of silica, 0.01 to 1% by weight of mica,0.01 to 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, 0.01 to 1% by weight ofxanthan gum, 0.01 to 1% by weight of dimethicone, and 0.001 to 1% byweight of dipotassium glycyrrhizate. Embodiment 32 is the composition ofany of Embodiments 14 to 31, wherein the composition is an emulsion.Embodiment 33 is the composition of any of Embodiments 14 to 32, whereinthe composition is formulated as an emulsion for an eye area. Embodiment34 is the composition of any of Embodiments 14 to 33, wherein thecomposition is formulated to decrease dark circles and/or puffiness inan eye area. Embodiment 35 is the composition of any of Embodiments 14to 23, wherein the composition comprises Opuntia ficus-indica fruitextract and optionally one or more of malachite extract, Opuntia tunafruit extract, and/or adenosine. Embodiment 36 is the composition ofEmbodiment 35, comprising 0.00001 to 0.01% by weight of Opuntiaficus-indica fruit extract and optionally one or more of 0.00001 to 0.1%by weight of malachite extract, 0.00001 to 3% by weight of Opuntia tunafruit extract, and/or 0.001 to 1% adenosine. Embodiment 37 is thecomposition of Embodiment 35 or 36, further comprising at least one UVabsorption and/or reflecting agent. Embodiment 38 is the composition ofEmbodiment 37, wherein the at least one UV absorption and/or reflectingagent comprises homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate (octisalate),oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octocrylene. Embodiment 39 is thecomposition of Embodiment 38, comprising 5 to 15% by weight ofhomosalate, 1 to 10% by weight of ethylhexyl salicylate (octisalate), 1to 10% by weight of oxybenzone, 1 to 10% by weight of avobenzone, and 1to 10% by weight of octocrylene. Embodiment 40 is the composition of anyof Embodiments 35 to 39, further comprising ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, ceteareth-25, and disodiumethylene dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate. Embodiment 41 is the compositionof Embodiment 40, comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, 0.01 to 3% by weight ofceteareth-25, and 0.01 to 3% by weight of disodium ethylene dicocamidePEG-15 disulfate. Embodiment 42 is the composition of any of Embodiments35 to 41, further comprising dicaprylyl carbonate, cetearyl alcohol, anddimethicone. Embodiment 43 is the composition of Embodiment 42,comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of dicaprylyl carbonate, 0.1 to 5% byweight of cetearyl alcohol, and 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethicone.Embodiment 44 is the composition of any of Embodiments 35 to 43, furthercomprising phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, silica,methyldihydrojasmonate, ethylene brassylate, bisabolol, caprylyl glycol,decylene glycol, and tocopheryl acetate. Embodiment 45 is thecomposition of Embodiment 44, comprising 0.01 to 3% by weight ofphenoxyethanol, 0.01 to 3% by weight of hydroxyacetophenone, 0.01 to 1%by weight of silica, 0.01 to 1% by weight of methyldihydrojasmonate,0.01 to 1% by weight of ethylene brassylate, 0.01 to 1% by weight ofbisabolol, 0.01 to 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, 0.001 to 1% byweight of decylene glycol, and 0.001 to 1% by weight of tocopherylacetate. Embodiment 46 is the composition of any of Embodiments 35 to45, further comprising jojoba esters and/or behenyl alcohol. Embodiment47 is the composition of Embodiment 46, comprising 0.01 to 3% by weightof jojoba esters and/or 0.01 to 1% by weight of behenyl alcohol.Embodiment 48 is the composition of any of Embodiments 35 to 47, whereinthe composition is formulated as an emulsion. Embodiment 49 is thecomposition of any of Embodiments 35 to 48, wherein the composition isformulated as a sunscreen emulsion. Embodiment 50 is the composition ofany of Embodiments 14 to 23, wherein the composition comprises Prunusmume leaf extract and optionally one or more of malachite extract,Opuntia tuna fruit extract, and/or adenosine. Embodiment 51 is thecomposition of Embodiment 50, comprising 0.01 to 3% by weight of Prunusmume leaf extract and optionally one or more of 0.00001 to 0.1% byweight of malachite extract, 0.00001 to 3% by weight of Opuntia tunafruit extract, and/or 0.001 to 1% adenosine. Embodiment 52 is thecomposition of Embodiment 50 or 51, further comprising glyceryl stearateand acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer Embodiment 53 isthe composition of Embodiment 52, comprising 0.01 to 3% by weight ofglyceryl stearate and 0.01 to 3% by weight of acrylamide/sodiumacryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer. Embodiment 54 is the composition ofany of Embodiments 50 to 53, further comprising isohexadecane,dimethicone, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, cetearyl alcohol,phenoxyethanol, butylene glycol, caprylic/capric triglyceride,methyldihydrojasmonate, and ethylene brassylate. Embodiment 55 is thecomposition of Embodiment 54, comprising 1 to 15% by weight ofisohexadecane, 0.01 to 10% by weight of dimethicone, 1 to 10% by weightof aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, 0.1 to 5% by weight of cetearylalcohol, 0.01 to 3% by weight of phenoxyethanol, 0.1 to 10% by weight ofbutylene glycol, 0.01 to 3% by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride,0.001 to 1% by weight of methyldihydrojasmonate, 0.001 to 1% by weightof ethylene brassylate. Embodiment 56 is the composition of any ofEmbodiments 50 to 55, further comprising ceteareth-33 and ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer. Embodiment 57 is the compositionof Embodiment 56, comprising 0.01 to 3% by weight of ceteareth-33 and0.01 to 3% by weight of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer.Embodiment 58 is the composition of any of Embodiments 50 to 57, furthercomprising pentylene glycol, isopropyl palmitate, panthenol, anddipotassium glycyrrhizate. Embodiment 59 is the composition ofEmbodiment 58, comprising 1 to 10% by weight of pentylene glycol, 0.01to 3% by weight of isopropyl palmitate, 0.01 to 1% by weight ofpanthenol, and 0.001 to 1% by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizate.Embodiment 60 is the composition of any of Embodiments 50 to 55, furthercomprising isocetyl stearate, cetyl alcohol, cetyl esters, and caprylylmethicone. Embodiment 61 is the composition of Embodiment 60, comprising0.1 to 5% by weight of isocetyl stearate, 0.1 to 5% by weight of cetylalcohol, 0.1 to 5% by weight of cetyl esters, and 0.1 to 5% by weight ofcaprylyl methicone. Embodiment 62 is the composition of any ofEmbodiments 60 to 61, further comprising hydroxyacetophenone, stearicacid, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol, triethanolamine,ceteareth-20, caprylyl glycol, behenyl alcohol, titanium dioxide,decylene glycol, tocopheryl acetate, polysorbate 80, andacrylates/C10-13 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. Embodiment 63 is thecomposition of Embodiment 62, comprising 0.01 to 3% by weight ofhydroxyacetophenone, 0.01 to 3% by weight of stearic acid, 0.01 to 3% byweight of PEG-100 stearate, 0.01 to 3% by weight of arachidyl alcohol,0.01 to 3% by weight of triethanolamine, 0.01 to 1% by weight ofceteareth-20, 0.01 to 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, 0.01 to 1% byweight of behenyl alcohol, 0.01 to 1% by weight of titanium dioxide,0.001 to 1% by weight of decylene glycol, 0.001 to 1% by weight oftocopheryl acetate, 0.001 to 1% by weight of polysorbate 80, and 0.001to 1% by weight of acrylates/C10-13 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.Embodiment 64 is the composition of any of Embodiments 50 to 57, whereinthe composition is formulated as an emulsion. Embodiment 65 is thecomposition of any of Embodiments 50 to 64, wherein the composition isformulated as an emulsion gel. Embodiment 66 is the composition of anyof Embodiments 50 to 65, wherein the composition is formulated as acream. Embodiment 67 is the composition of any of Embodiments 50 to 66,wherein the composition is formulated as a night moisturizer. Embodiment68 is the composition of any of Embodiments 50 to 67, wherein thecomposition is formulated as a night moisturizer for the face.Embodiment 69 is the composition of any of Embodiments 14 to 23, whereinthe composition optionally comprises one or more of malachite extractand/or Opuntia tuna fruit extract. Embodiment 70 is the composition ofEmbodiment 69, optionally comprising one or more of 0.00001 to 0.1% byweight of malachite extract and/or 0.00001 to 3% by weight of Opuntiatuna fruit extract. Embodiment 71 is the composition of Embodiment 69 or70, further comprising acrylates copolymer, magnesium aluminum silicate,sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, cocamidopropylbetaine, PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, sodium laureth sulfate,and coco-glucoside. Embodiment 72 is the composition of Embodiment 71,comprising 1 to 10% by weight of acrylates copolymer, 0.01 to 3% byweight of magnesium aluminum silicate, 1 to 10% by weight of sodiumstearoyl glutamate, 1 to 10% by weight of sodium cocoyl glutamate, 1 to10% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, 1 to 10% by weight of PPG-2hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, 0.01 to 3% by weight of sodium laurethsulfate, and 0.01 to 3% by weight of coco-glucoside. Embodiment 73 isthe composition of any of Embodiments 69 to 72, further comprisingcetearyl alcohol, propanediol, hydrolyzed corn starch, and potassiumhydroxide. Embodiment 74 is the composition of Embodiment 73, comprising1 to 10% by weight of cetearyl alcohol, 1 to 10% by weight ofpropanediol, 0.1 to 5% by weight of hydrolyzed corn starch, and 0.01 to3% by weight of potassium hydroxide. Embodiment 75 is the composition ofany of Embodiments 69 to 74, further comprising methyldihydrojasmonate,ethylene brassylate, sodium chloride, Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba)wax, citric acid, titanium dioxide, lactose, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin,and tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. Embodiment 76 is thecomposition of Embodiment 75, comprising 0.01 to 1% by weight ofmethyldihydrojasmonate, 0.01 to 1% by weight of ethylene brassylate,0.01 to 1% by weight of sodium chloride, 0.01 to 1% by weight ofCopernicia cerifera (Carnauba) wax, 0.01 to 1% by weight of citric acid,0.01 to 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, 0.001 to 1% by weight oflactose, 0.001 to 1% by weight of hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, and 0.001to 1% by weight of tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. Embodiment77 is the composition of any of Embodiments 69 to 76, wherein thecomposition is formulated as a surfactant system. Embodiment 78 is thecomposition of any of Embodiments 69 to 77, wherein the composition isformulated as a cleanser. Embodiment 79 is the composition of any ofEmbodiments 69 to 78, wherein the composition is formulated as a facialcleanser. Embodiment 80 is the composition of any of Embodiments 69 to70, further comprising acrylates copolymer, TEA-lauryl sulfate,cocamidopropyl betaine, and PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide.Embodiment 81 is the composition of Embodiment 80, comprising 1 to 10%by weight of acrylates copolymer, 5 to 20% by weight of TEA-laurylsulfate, 0.1 to 5% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, and 0.1 to 5% byweight of PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide. Embodiment 82 is thecomposition of Embodiment 80 or 81, further comprising propanediol andtriethanolamine. Embodiment 83 is the composition of Embodiment 82,comprising 1 to 10% by weight of propanediol and 0.1 to 5% by weight oftriethanolamine. Embodiment 84 is the composition of any of Embodiments80 to 83, further comprising Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) wax, sodiumchloride, lactose, and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin. Embodiment 85 is thecomposition of Embodiment 84, comprising 0.01 to 1% by weight ofCopernicia cerifera (Carnauba) wax, 0.01 to 1% by weight of sodiumchloride, 0.001 to 1% by weight of lactose, and 0.001 to 1% by weight ofhydroxypropyl cyclodextrin. Embodiment 86 is the composition of any ofEmbodiments 80 to 85, wherein the composition is formulated as asurfactant system. Embodiment 87 is the composition of any ofEmbodiments 80 to 86, wherein the composition is formulated as acleanser. Embodiment 88 is the composition of any of Embodiments 80 to87, wherein the composition is formulated as a facial cleanser.Embodiment 89 is the method of Embodiment 1, wherein the condition orappearance of skin to be improved is the overall skin appearance and theoverall skin appearance is improved. Embodiment 90 is the method ofEmbodiment 1, wherein the condition or appearance of skin to be improvedis radiance/luminosity and the radiance/luminosity is improved.Embodiment 91 is the method of Embodiment 1, wherein the condition orappearance of skin to be improved is skin texture/smoothness and thetexture/smoothness is improved. Embodiment 92 is the method ofEmbodiment 1, wherein the condition or appearance of skin to be improvedis the skin tone and the skin tone is improved. Embodiment 93 is themethod of Embodiment 1, wherein the condition or appearance of skin tobe improved is skin firmness and the firmness is improved. Embodiment 94is the method of Embodiment 1, wherein the condition or appearance ofskin to be improved is skin elasticity and the elasticity is improved.Embodiment 95 is the method of any of Embodiments 89 to 94, wherein themethod comprises applying the topical composition daily to skin in needthereof. Embodiment 96 is the method of Embodiment 95, wherein thetopical composition is applied twice daily. Embodiment 97 is the methodof Embodiment 95, wherein the topical composition is applied as acleanser twice daily, is applied as a day cream once daily, is appliedas a night cream once daily, and/or is applied as an eye cream twicedaily.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of lips or keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition”includes compositions suitable for topical application on lips orkeratinous tissue. Such compositions are typicallydermatologically-acceptable in that they do not have undue toxicity,incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like, whenapplied to lips or skin. Topical skin care compositions of the presentinvention can have a selected viscosity to avoid significant dripping orpooling after application to skin.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, lips, skin, hair and nails.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The term “substantially” and its variations are defined as being largelybut not necessarily wholly what is specified as understood by one ofordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limiting embodimentsubstantially refers to ranges within 10%, within 5%, within 1%, orwithin 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting” or “reducing” or any variation of these termsincludes any measurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve adesired result. The terms “promote” or “increase” or any variation ofthese terms includes any measurable increase or production of a proteinor molecule (e.g., matrix proteins such as fibronectin, laminin,collagen, or elastin or molecules such as hyaluronic acid) to achieve adesired result.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

The use of the word “a” or “an” when used in conjunction with the term“comprising” in the claims and/or the specification may mean “one,” butit is also consistent with the meaning of “one or more,” “at least one,”and “one or more than one.”

As used in this specification and claim(s), the words “comprising” (andany form of comprising, such as “comprise” and “comprises”), “having”(and any form of having, such as “have” and “has”), “including” (and anyform of including, such as “includes” and “include”) or “containing”(and any form of containing, such as “contains” and “contain”) areinclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional, unrecitedelements or method steps.

The compositions and methods for their use can “comprise,” “consistessentially of,” or “consist of” any of the ingredients or stepsdisclosed throughout the specification.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

As noted above, several of the unique aspects of the present inventionare to combine in a topical cosmetic composition encapsulatedresveratrol, oligopeptide-1, niacinamide, Opuntia ficus-indica extract,Prunus mume extract, algae extract, malachite extract, adenosine, and/orOpuntia tuna fruit extract. This allows for the benefits reduce finelines and wrinkles, counter oxidative damage, reduce oxidizing agents,increase production of dermal proteins (such as collagen and elastin),reduce red blotches, reduce pigmentation in cells, inhibit tyrosinase,inhibit melanogenesis, inhibit TNF-α, reduce inflammation, increasemoisture, reduce skin irritation, reduce dark circles in or under theeyes, inhibit MMP1, inhibit COX-1, inhibit COX-2, inhibit lipoxygenase,increase elastin production, increase collagen stimulation, increaselaminin production, and/or reduce permeability of skin cells.

The following subsections describe non-limiting aspects of the presentinvention in further detail.

A particular embodiment of the present invention is designed to work asan eye cream composition. In one instance, the eye cream can help firmup skin and increase microcirculation to reduce the appearance of undereye bags, reduce the appearance of dark circles, and/or prevent and/oraddress the signs of aging. The composition relies on a uniquecombination of any one of, any combination of, or all of encapsulatedresveratrol, oligopeptide-1, niacinamide, Opuntia ficus-indica extract,Prunus mume extract, algae extract, malachite extract, adenosine, and/orOpuntia tuna fruit extract. In some embodiments, the compositioncontains a combination of encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1,niacinamide, and algae extract. In some embodiments, the compositionadditionally contains malachite extract. Examples of such a compositionare provided in Example 1, Table 1 and Example 4, Table 14.

Another particular embodiment of the present invention is designed towork as a day cream. In one instance, the day cream can moisturize andprotect from Ultraviolet light and/or prevent and/or address the signsof aging. The composition relies on a unique combination of any one of,any combination of, or all of encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1,niacinamide, Opuntia ficus-indica extract, Prunus mume extract, algaeextract, malachite extract, adenosine, and/or Opuntia tuna fruitextract. In some embodiments, the composition contains a combination ofencapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, niacinamide, and Opuntiaficus-indica extract. In some embodiments, the composition additionallycontains adenosine. In some embodiments, the composition additionallycontains malachite extract. In some embodiments, the compositionadditionally contains Opuntia tuna fruit extract. Examples of suchcompositions are provided in Example 1, Table 2 and Example 4, Table 15.

Another particular embodiment of the present invention is designed towork as a night cream. In one instance, the night cream can moisturizeand/or prevent and/or address the signs of aging. The composition relieson a unique combination of any one of, any combination of, or all ofencapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, niacinamide, Opuntiaficus-indica extract, Prunus mume extract, algae extract, malachiteextract, adenosine, and/or Opuntia tuna fruit extract. In someembodiments, the composition contains a combination of encapsulatedresveratrol, oligopeptide-1, niacinamide, and Prunus mume extract. Insome embodiments, the composition additionally contains adenosine. Insome embodiments, the composition additionally contains malachiteextract. In some embodiments, the composition additionally containsOpuntia tuna fruit extract. Examples of such compositions are providedin Example 1, Table 3 and Example 4, Table 16 and 17.

Another particular embodiment of the present invention is designed towork as a cleanser. In one instance, the cleanser can exfoliate theskin, cleanse the skin and/or hair of excess oils, sebum, and/orparticulates, and/or prevent or address the signs of aging. Thecomposition relies on a unique combination of any one of, anycombination of, or all of encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1,niacinamide, Opuntia ficus-indica extract, Prunus mume extract, algaeextract, malachite extract, adenosine, and/or Opuntia tuna fruitextract. In some embodiments, the composition contains a combination ofencapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, and niacinamide. In someembodiments, the composition additionally contains malachite extract. Insome embodiments, the composition additionally contains Opuntia tunafruit extract. Example of such compositions are provided in Example 1,Table 4 and Example 4, Tables 18 and 19.

Another particular embodiment of the present invention is designed towork as a foundation. In one instance, the foundation reduces theappearance of the signs of aging, acst as a base for the application ofadditional cosmetics, and/or prevents or addresses the signs of aging.The composition relies on a unique combination of any one of, anycombination of, or all of encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1,niacinamide, Opuntia ficus-indica extract, Prunus mume extract, algaeextract, malachite extract, adenosine, and/or Opuntia tuna fruitextract. In some embodiments, the composition contains a combination ofencapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, and niacinamide. In someembodiments, the composition additionally contains malachite extract. Insome embodiments, the composition additionally contains Opuntia tunafruit extract. Example of such compositions are provided in Example 1,Table 5.

The above compositions can be applied to the skin or hair and remain onthe skin or hair for a period of time (e.g., at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10,20, 30, or 60 minutes or more). After which the composition, if needed,can be rinsed from the skin or peeled from the skin. The abovecompositions can also be applied to the skin and then rinsed or peeledfrom the skin.

A. Active Ingredients

The present invention is premised on a determination that a combinationof active ingredients—encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, andniacinamide—can be used to improve the skin's visual appearance andcounteract the extrinsic and intrinsic effects of aging. As non-limitingexamples, the three ingredients above when combined can reduce finelines and wrinkles, counter oxidative damage, reduce oxidizing agents,increase the antioxidant capacity of a composition, increase productionof dermal proteins (such as collagen and elastin), reduce red blotches,reduce pigmentation in cells, inhibit tyrosinase, inhibit melanogenesis,and/or inhibit TNF-α.

Additional active ingredients can also be used in combination with theabove mentioned active ingredients. In one aspect, the activeingredients include one or more of Opuntia ficus-indica extract, Prunusmume extract, algae extract, malachite extract, adenosine, and/orOpuntia tuna fruit extract. The additional active ingredients can beused to improve the skin's visual appearance and/or counteract theextrinsic and intrinsic effects of aging. As non-limiting examples,these ingredients can reduce inflammation, increase moisture, reduceskin irritation, reduce dark circles in or under the eyes, inhibit MMP1,inhibit COX-1, inhibit COX-2, inhibit lipoxygenase, increase elastinproduction, increase collagen stimulation, increase laminin production,inhibit TNF-α, reduce an oxidant, and reduce permeability of skin cells.

The combination of ingredients can be used in different products totreat various skin conditions. By way of non-limiting examples, an eyecream can help firm up skin, increase microcirculation to reduce theappearance of under eye bags, reduce the appearance of dark circles,and/or prevent and/or address the signs of aging, a day cream can helpmoisturize and protect from Ultraviolet light and/or prevent and/oraddress the signs of aging, a night cream can moisturize and/or preventand/or address the signs of aging, a cleanser can exfoliate skin,cleanse the skin and/or hair of excess oils, sebum, and/or particulates,and/or prevent or address the signs of aging. A regimen of the eyecream, day cream, night cream, and cleanser improves overall skinappearance, decreases facial and neck fine lines (sub-orbital andglobal), decreases wrinkles (sub-orbital and global), improvesradiance/luminosity, improves texture/smoothness (visual and tactile),improves skin tone (clarity and evenness), improves firmness (visual),and improves elasticity (tactile).

Encapsulated resveratrol is an encapsulation of a natural phenol inconcentric macrovesicles of surfactant and aqueous phase bilayers.Encapsulated resveratrol is commercially available and can be obtainedfrom Silicones Plus under the trade name Spherulite-Res or LipobeadsPurple & Resveratrol DS60820 supplied by Vantage Specialty Chemicals.Non-limiting examples of the benefits provided by resveratrol and shownherein include anti-oxidant capacity.

Oligopeptide-1, also known as caprooyl-tetrapeptide-3, is a modifiedtetrapeptide having a sequence of caprooyl-Gly-His-Lys-Lys.Oligopeptide-1 is commercially available and can be obtained from LucasMeyer under the trade name ChroNOline™. Non-limiting examples of thebenefits provided by oligopeptide-1 and shown herein include inhibitionof tyrosinase, increased production of elastin, increased stimulation ofcollagen, and/or inhibition of TNF-α.

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, 3-Pyridinecarboxamide, orvitamin B3, is an organic compound known to exhibit skin conditioningbenefits when used in cosmetic compositions. The compound is widelycommercially available. Non-limiting examples of the benefits providedby niacinamide and shown herein include inhibition of melanogenesis.

Opuntia ficus-indica extract is a fermentation of whole cactus plant.The extract is commercially available and can be obtained from Barnetunder the trade name Nopalex. Non-limiting examples of the benefitsprovided by Opuntia ficus-indica extract and shown herein includeinhibition of COX-1, inhibition of COX-2, inhibition of lipoxygenase,and/or inhibition of TNF-α.

Prunus mume extract is an aqueous extract of Prunus mume leaf. Prunusmume is also known as Japanese Apricot. Non-limiting examples of theextraction method of Prunus mume extract includes extracting the leavesof Prunus mume using an aqueous solution and then placing the aqueousextract in butylene glycol. The extract is commercially available andcan be obtained from Southern Cross/Lucas Meyer. Non-limiting examplesof the benefits provided by Prunus mume extract and shown herein includeanti-oxidant capacity, increased collagen stimulation, and increasedlaminin production.

Algae extract is a water extract of Fucus vesiculosus, a brown algaecommonly known as bladderwrack. The extract is commercially availableand can be obtained from BASF under the trade name Shadownyl™.Non-limiting examples of the benefits provided by algae extract andshown herein include reduced permeability of skin cells.

Malachite extract is an extract of malachite stone. The extract is asource of an anti-oxidant copper complex. The extract is commerciallyavailable and can be obtained from Gattefossé under the trade nameMala'Kîte™. Non-limiting examples of the benefits provided by malachiteextract and shown herein include inhibition of MMP1, inhibition ofCOX-1, inhibition of COX-2, inhibition of lipoxygenase, and possessionof antioxidant properties.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside comprising a molecule of adenineattached to a ribose sugar molecule moiety. The compound is commerciallyavailable and can be obtained from a variety of commercial sources.

Opuntia tuna fruit extract is an extract from the fruit of prickly pear.The extract is commercially available and can be obtained from a varietyof commercial sources (see International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionaryand Handbook, 12th edition, volume 2, page 1731 (2008), which isincorporated by reference).

The extracts described herein can be extracts made through extractionmethods known in the art and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examplesof extraction methods include the use of liquid-liquid extraction, solidphase extraction, aqueous extraction, ethyl acetate, alcohol, acetone,oil, supercritical carbon dioxide, heat, pressure, pressure dropextraction, ultrasonic extraction, etc. Extracts can be a liquid, solid,dried liquid, re-suspended solid, etc.

B. Amounts of Ingredients

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude any amount of the ingredients discussed in this specification.The compositions can also include any number of combinations ofadditional ingredients described throughout this specification (e.g.,pigments, or additional cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredients). Theconcentrations of the any ingredient within the compositions can vary.In non-limiting embodiments, for example, the compositions can comprise,consisting essentially of, or consist of, in their final form, forexample, at least about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%,0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%,0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%,0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%,0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%,0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%,0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%,0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%,0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%,0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%,0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%,0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%,0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%,0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%,0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%,0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.0825%,0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%,0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%,0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%,0.0550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%,0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%,0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%,1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%,3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%,4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%,5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%,6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%,7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%,9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%,13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%,27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%,90%, 95%, or 99% or any range derivable therein, of at least one of theingredients that are mentioned throughout the specification and claims.In non-limiting aspects, the percentage can be calculated by weight orvolume of the total composition. A person of ordinary skill in the artwould understand that the concentrations can vary depending on theaddition, substitution, and/or subtraction of ingredients in a givencomposition.

C. Vehicles

The compositions of the present invention can include or be incorporatedinto all types of vehicles and carriers. The vehicle or carrier can be apharmaceutically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle or carrier.Non-limiting examples of vehicles or carriers include water, glycerin,alcohol, oil, a silicon containing compound, a silicone compound, andwax. Variations and other appropriate vehicles will be apparent to theskilled artisan and are appropriate for use in the present invention. Incertain aspects, the concentrations and combinations of the compounds,ingredients, and agents can be selected in such a way that thecombinations are chemically compatible and do not form complexes whichprecipitate from the finished product.

D. Structure

The compositions of the present invention can be structured orformulated into a variety of different forms. Non-limiting examplesinclude emulsions (e.g., water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water,oil-in-water, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone, oil-in-water-in-oil,oil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions), creams, lotions, solutions (bothaqueous and hydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks andpowders), gels, masks, peels, and ointments. Variations and otherstructures will be apparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriatefor use in the present invention.

E. Additional Ingredients

In addition to the combination of ingredients disclosed by theinventors, the compositions can also include additional ingredients suchas cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceutical active ingredients.Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredients are described inthe following subsections.

1. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2004and 2008) describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrance agents (artificial andnatural; e.g., gluconic acid, phenoxyethanol, and triethanolamine), dyesand color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titaniumdioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no.17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellowno. 11), flavoring agents/aroma agents (e.g., Stevia rebaudiana(sweetleaf) extract, and menthol), adsorbents, lubricants, solvents,moisturizers (including, e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers,occlusive agents, and agents that affect the natural moisturizationmechanisms of the skin), water-repellants, UV absorbers and/orreflectors (physical and chemical absorbers such as para-aminobenzoicacid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives, titanium dioxide, zincoxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g., A, B, C, D, E, and K),trace metals (e.g., zinc, calcium and selenium), anti-irritants (e.g.,steroids and non-steroidal anti-inflammatories), botanical extracts(e.g., Aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber extract, Ginkgo biloba, ginseng,and rosemary), anti-microbial agents, antioxidants (e.g., BHT andtocopherol), chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA and tetrasodiumEDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparaben and propylparaben), pHadjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid), absorbents (e.g.,aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch, oat starch,cyclodextrin, talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching and lightening agents(e.g., hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate), humectants (e.g.,sorbitol, urea, methyl gluceth-20, saccharide isomerate, and mannitol),exfoliants, waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxidestearate), skin conditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin,bisabolol, ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum-1,ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, hydrogenated polydecene,octyldodecyl oleate, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate). Non-limitingexamples of some of these ingredients are provided in the followingsubsections.

a. UV Absorption and/or Reflecting Agents

UV absorption and/or reflecting agents that can be used in combinationwith the compositions of the present invention include chemical andphysical sunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that canbe used include para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glycerylPABA, amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA,ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, i sopropylbenzyl salicylate,etc.), anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate,dibenzoylmethane derivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyltriazone, digalloyl trioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone withdihydroxyacetone, ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone,benzylidene malonate polysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonicacid, di sodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate,bis benzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizoletrisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Non-limiting examples ofphysical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc, petrolatum and metal oxides(e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).

b. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitinsulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerolpolymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol,maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, saccharide isomerate, salts ofpyrrolidone carboxylic acid, potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodiumglucuronate, sodium PCA, sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, andxylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,alanine, algae extract, Aloe barbadensis, Aloe barbadensis extract, Aloebarbadensis gel, Althea officinalis extract, apricot (Prunus armeniaca)kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, Arnica montana extract,aspartic acid, avocado (Persea gratissima) oil, barrier sphingolipids,butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, birch (Betulaalba) bark extract, borage (Borago officinalis) extract, butcherbroom(Ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, Calendula officinalisextract, Calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (Euphorbia cerifera) wax,canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamom (Elettariacardamomum) oil, carnauba (Copernicia cerifera) wax, carrot (Daucuscarota sativa) oil, castor (Ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20,ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile(Anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (Salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(Theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (Cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (Zea mays) oil,fatty acids, decyl oleate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyladipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate,DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, Eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, Geraniummaculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid,glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glycerylhydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(Vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (Corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(Corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, hybridsafflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, isocetylstearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid,isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (Jasminumofficinale) oil, jojoba (Buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (Aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate,lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (Citrus medicalimonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, Macadamia ternifolia nutoil, maltitol, matricaria (Chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucosesesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierellaoil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate,neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecylmyristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octylpalmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (Oleaeuropaea) oil, orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (Elaeisguineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethylether, paraffin, PCA, peach (Prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (Arachishypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate,PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glycerylstearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate,PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG-40stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate,pentadecalactone, peppermint (Mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum,phospholipids, plankton extract, polyamino sugar condensate,polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20,polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85,potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, propylene glycol, propyleneglycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, propyleneglycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol laurate, propylene glycolstearate, propylene glycol stearate SE, PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate,retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (Oryza sativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary(Rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil, safflower (Carthamus tinctorius)oil, sage (Salvia officinalis) oil, sandalwood (Santalum album) oil,serine, serum protein, sesame (Sesamum indicum) oil, shea butter(Butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodiumhyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodium palmitate, sodium PCA, sodiumpolyglutamate, soluble collagen, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate,sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol,soybean (Glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids, squalane, squalene, stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxy dimethicone, stearoxytrim ethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, stearyl heptanoate,stearyl stearate, sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed oil, sweet almond(Prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil, synthetic beeswax, tocopherol, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tribehenin, tridecyl neopentanoate,tridecyl stearate, triethanolamine, tristearin, urea, vegetable oil,water, waxes, wheat (Triticum vulgare) germ oil, and ylang ylang(Cananga odorata) oil.

c. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCI, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopherylmethylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate,ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters ofascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters,hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

d. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agent, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limitingexamples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmiticacid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethyleneoxide units, and mixtures thereof.

e. Emulsifiers

In certain aspects of the present invention, the compositions do notinclude an emulsifier. In other aspects, however, the compositions caninclude one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacialtension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of anemulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, andzwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos.5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include estersof glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, estersof sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers,esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols,alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acidamides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate,polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20),polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21,ceteareth-20, cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, C12-13 pareth-3,PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, PPG-5-ceteth-20,bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetylphosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol,arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

f. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In certain aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes asilicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be usedin the context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

g. Exfoliating Agent

Exfoliating agents include ingredients that remove dead skin cells onthe skin's outer surface. These agents may act through mechanical,chemical, and/or other means. Non-limiting examples of mechanicalexfoliating agents include abrasives such as pumice, silica, cloth,paper, shells, beads, solid crystals, solid polymers, etc. Non-limitingexamples of chemical exfoliating agents include acids and enzymeexfoliants. Acids that can be used as exfoliating agents include, butare not limited to, glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, alphahydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, etc. Other exfoliating agents knownto those of skill in the art are also contemplated as being usefulwithin the context of the present invention.

h. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to thoseof skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e., extractionby using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing).When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate(i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless,but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils areinsoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils(vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristicsfound in essential oils include boiling points that vary from about 160°to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

i. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition.Thickeners includes those that can increase the viscosity of acomposition without substantially modifying the efficacy of the activeingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increase thestability of the compositions of the present invention. In certainaspects of the present invention, thickeners include hydrogenatedpolyisobutene, trihydroxystearin, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vpcopolymer, or a mixture of them.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC10-C30 straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C10-C30 straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

j. Preservatives

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the contextof the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives suchas polyquaternium-1 and benzalkonium halides (e.g., benzalkoniumchloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g.,methylparabens and propylparabens), phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol,chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid, thimerosal or combinations thereof.

2. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical active agents are also contemplated as being useful withthe compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples ofpharmaceutical active agents include anti-acne agents, agents used totreat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines,anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatorydrugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-canceractives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants,antipruritics, antip soriatic agents, anti seborrheic agents,biologically active proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents,cauterizing agents, depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rashtreatment agents, enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growthretardants including DFMO and its salts and analogs, hemostatics,kerotolytics, canker sore treatment agents, cold sore treatment agents,dental and periodontal treatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skinprotectant/barrier agents, steroids including hormones andcorticosteroids, sunburn treatment agents, sunscreens, transdermalactives, nasal actives, vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, woundtreatment agents, wound healing agents, etc.

F. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, compositions of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition.In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal,laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of thecomposition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, an aerosol, aliquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump,or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for employingthe kit components as well the use of any other compositions included inthe container. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate preferred embodimentsof the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill in the artthat the techniques disclosed in the examples which follow representtechniques discovered by the inventor to function well in the practiceof the invention, and thus can be considered to constitute preferredmodes for its practice. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

Example 1

Combinations of active ingredients disclosed herein can be included in awide-range of topical product formulations for skin and/or hair.Combinations from Example 1 may be prepared as topical skin or haircompositions. In some aspects, the combination in Table 1 may beprepared as an eye cream. In some aspects, the combination in Table 2may be prepared as day cream. In some aspects, the combination in Table3 may be prepared as a night cream. In some aspects, the combination ofTable 4 may be prepared as a cleanser. In some aspects, the compbinationof Table 5 may be prepared as a foundation.

All of the compositions disclosed and claimed herein can be made andexecuted without undue experimentation in light of the presentdisclosure. While the compositions and methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will be apparent tothose of skill in the art that variations may be applied to thecompositions and in the steps or in the sequence of steps of the methoddescribed herein without departing from the concept, spirit and scope ofthe invention. More specifically, it will be apparent that certainagents which are both chemically and physiologically related may besubstituted for the agents described herein while the same or similarresults would be achieved. All such similar substitutes andmodifications apparent to those skilled in the art are deemed to bewithin the spirit, scope and concept of the invention as defined by theappended claims.

TABLE 1 Eye Cream Ingredient Encapsulated Resveratrol Oligopeptide-1Niacinamide Algae Extract Malachite Extract (optional)

TABLE 2 Day Cream Ingredient Encapsulated Resveratrol Oligopeptide-1Niacinamide Opuntia ficus-indica extract Malachite Extract (optional)

TABLE 3 Night Cream Ingredient Encapsulated Resveratrol Oligopeptide-1Niacinamide Prunus mume extract Malachite Extract (optional) Adenosine(optional)

TABLE 4 Cleanser Ingredient Encapsulated Resveratrol Oligopeptide-1Niacinamide Malachite Extract (optional)

TABLE 5 Foundation Ingredient Encapsulated Resveratrol Oligopeptide-1Niacinamide Malachite Extract (optional)

Example 2

Tables 6 and 7 describe generic formulations or skin testingformulations in which an active ingredient can be incorporated into.These formulations can also be used to determine the types of skinbenefits that can be attributed to the active ingredient. Theseformulations are prepared in such a manner that any resulting skinbenefit from topical application of the formula to skin can be directlyattributed to the active ingredient being tested. In the context ofaspects of the present invention, the active ingredient that can betested can be encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1, niacinamide,Opuntia ficus-indica extract, Prunus mume extract, algae extract,malachite extract, adenosine, and/or Opuntia tuna fruit extract, or anycombination thereof, or all of such active ingredients, or at least 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and/or 9 of such active ingredients. It should berecognized that other standard testing vehicles can also be used todetermine the skin benefit properties of active ingredient and that thefollowing formulations are non-limiting testing vehicles.

TABLE 6* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Phase A Water 84.80Xanthan gum 0.1 M-paraben 0.15 P-paraben 0.1 Citric acid 0.1 Phase BCetyl alcohol 4.0 Glyceryl stearate + PEG 100 4.0 Octyl palmitate 4.0Dimethicone 1.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Phase C Active Ingredient** 2.0TOTAL 100 *Procedure for making composition: Sprinkle Xanthan gum inwater and mix for 10 min. Subsequently, add all ingredients in phase Aand heat to 70-75° C. Add all items in phase B to separate beaker andheat to 70-75° C. Mix phases A and B at 70-75° C. Continue mixing andallow composition to cool to 30° C. Subsequently, add phase C ingredientwhile mixing. **The active ingredients identified throughout thisspecification can be incorporated into composition as the activeingredient. The active ingredients can be individually used or combinedin this composition. The concentration ranges of the active ingredients(or combination of active ingredients) can be modified as desired orneeded by increasing or decreasing the amount of water.

TABLE 7* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Phase A Water 78.6M-paraben 0.2 P-paraben 0.1 Na₂ EDTA 0.1 Shea butter 4.5 Petrolatum 4.5Glycerin 4.0 Propylene Glycol 2.0 Finsolve TN 2.0 Phase B Sepigel 3052.0 Phase C Active Ingredient ** 2.0 TOTAL 100 *Add ingredients in phaseA to beaker and heat to 70-75° C. while mixing. Subsequently, add thephase B ingredient with phase A and cool to 30° C. with mixing.Subsequently, add phase C ingredient while mixing. ** The activeingredients identified throughout this specification can be incorporatedinto composition as the active ingredient. The active ingredients can beindividually used or combined in this composition. The concentrationranges of the active ingredients (or combination of active ingredients)can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing theamount of water.

Example 3

The formulations represented in Table 8-13 are non-limiting examples ofthe types of formulations that can be prepared in the context of thepresent invention. Any standard method can be used to prepare suchformulations. For instance, simple mixing of the ingredients in a beakercan be used. One should mix such ingredients and add heat as necessaryto obtain a homogenous composition. The active ingredients that can beused in the formulations can include encapsulated resveratrol,oligopeptide-1, niacinamide, Opuntia ficus-indica extract, Prunus mumeextract, algae extract, malachite extract, adenosine, and/or Opuntiatuna fruit extract, or any combination thereof, or all of such activeingredients, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and/or 9 of such activeingredients.

Table 8 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 8composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table8 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.).

TABLE 8 Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water q.s. ActiveIngredient *   0.1% to 10% Glycerin    3 to 40% Butylene glycol 0.0001to 10% Propylene glycol 0.0001 to 10% Phenoxyethanol 0.0001 to 10%Disodium EDTA 0.0001 to 10% Steareth-20 0.0001 to 10% ChlorhexidineDiglunonate 0.0001 to 10% Potassium Sorbate 0.0001 to 10% Preservative**0.0001 to 2%  TOTAL 100 * The active ingredients identified throughoutthis specification can be incorporated into composition as the activeingredient. The active ingredients can be individually used or combinedin this composition. The concentration ranges of the active ingredients(or combination of active ingredients) can be modified as desired orneeded by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. **Anypreservative can be used identified in the specification or those knownin the art.

Table 9 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,olw, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 9composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table9 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.).

TABLE 9 Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water q.s. ActiveIngredient*   0.1% to 10% Dimethicone 0.0001 to 10% Triethanolamine0.0001 to 10% Phenonip 0.0001 to 10% Betaine 0.0001 to 10% Disodium EDTA0.0001 to 10% Tocopheryl acetate 0.0001 to 10% Prodew 400 0.0001 to 10%Preservative** 0.0001 to 2%  TOTAL 100 *The active ingredientsidentified throughout this specification can be incorporated intocomposition as the active ingredient. The active ingredients can beindividually used or combined in this composition. The concentrationranges of the active ingredients (or combination of active ingredients)can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing theamount of water. **Any preservative can be used identified in thespecification or those known in the art.

Table 10 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,olw, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 10composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table10 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 10composition can be a moisturizer.

TABLE 10 Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water q.s. ActiveIngredient *   0.1% to 10% Glycerin 0.0001 to 10% Pentylene Glycol0.0001 to 10% Capryl Glycol 0.0001 to 10% Disodium EDTA 0.0001 to 10%Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 0.0001 to 10% Lipex 205 (Shea Butter)0.0001 to 10% Squalane 0.0001 to 10% Cetyl Alcohol 0.0001 to 10%Dimethicone 0.0001 to 10% Ceramide II 0.0001 to 10% Stearic Acid 0.0001to 10% Super Sterol Ester 0.0001 to 10% Arlacel 165 0.0001 to 10%Simulgel 600 0.0001 to 10% TOTAL 100 * The active ingredients identifiedthroughout this specification can be incorporated into composition asthe active ingredient. The active ingredients can be individually usedor combined in this composition. The concentration ranges of the activeingredients (or combination of active ingredients) can be modified asdesired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water.

Table 11 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,olw, w/o, olwl o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 11composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table11 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 11composition can be a moisturizer.

TABLE 11 Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water q.s. ActiveIngredient *   0.1% to 10% Glycerin 0.0001 to 10% Pentylene Glycol0.0001 to 10% Capryl Glycol 0.0001 to 10% Disodium EDTA 0.0001 to 10%Petrolatum 0.0001 to 10% Squalane 0.0001 to 10% Cetyl Alcohol 0.0001 to10% Arlacel 165 0.0001 to 10% Dimethicone 0.0001 to 10% Simulgel 6000.0001 to 10% TOTAL 100 * The active ingredients identified throughoutthis specification can be incorporated into composition as the activeingredient. The active ingredients can be individually used or combinedin this composition. The concentration ranges of the active ingredients(or combination of active ingredients) can be modified as desired orneeded by increasing or decreasing the amount of water.

Table 12 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,olw, , w/o, olwl o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredientsidentified throughout the specification can be included into the Table12 composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table12 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 12composition can be a sunscreen lotion.

TABLE 12 Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water q.s. ActiveIngredient *   0.1% to 10% Xanthan Gum 0.0001 to 10% Disodium EDTA0.0001 to 10% Pentylene Glycol 0.0001 to 10% Capryl Glycol 0.0001 to 10%Pemulen TR-1 0.0001 to 10% Triethanolamine 0.0001 to 10% PVP/HexadeceneCopolymer 0.0001 to 10% Finsolv TN    10 to 30% Sorbitan Isostearate0.0001 to 10% Sunscreen Ingredient**    2 to 25% TOTAL 100 * The activeingredients identified throughout this specification can be incorporatedinto composition as the active ingredient. The active ingredients can beindividually used or combined in this composition. The concentrationranges of the active ingredients (or combination of active ingredients)can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing theamount of water. **Sunscreen ingredient can be any sunscreen ingredient,or combination of such ingredients, identified in the specification(e.g. UV absorbing and/or reflecting agents) or known to those ofordinary skill in the art. In one embodiment, the sunscreen ingredientis a combination of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

Table 13 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The additional ingredients identified throughout thespecification can be included into the Table 13 composition (e.g., byadjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentrationranges of the ingredients identified in Table 13 can vary depending on adesired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.).In particular embodiments, the Table 13 composition can be a cleanser.

TABLE 13 Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water q.s. ActiveIngredient*   0.1% to 10% Disodium EDTA 0.0001 to 10% Citric Acid 0.0001to 10% Pentylene Glycol 0.0001 to 10% Capryl Glycol 0.0001 to 10% sodiummethyl cocoyl taurate    10 to 30% sodium cocoamphodiacetate    1 to 10%TOTAL 100 *The active ingredients identified throughout thisspecification can be incorporated into composition as the activeingredient. The active ingredients can be individually used or combinedin this composition. The concentration ranges of the active ingredients(or combination of active ingredients) can be modified as desired orneeded by increasing or decreasing the amount of water.

Example 4

Formulations having combinations of active ingredients disclosed hereinfrom Example 1 were prepared as topical skin and/or hair compositions.The formulation in Table 14 was prepared as an eye cream. Theformulation in Table 15 was prepared as a day cream. The formulations inTables 16 and 17 were prepared as night creams. The formulations inTables 18 and 19 were prepared as cleansers.

TABLE 14* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water 81 Cetyl Alcohol3 Glycerin 3 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3 Stearic Acid 2 Glyceryl Stearate 2PEG-100 Stearate 1 1,2-Hexanediol 1 Niacinamide 1 Triethanolamine 0.6Benzyl Alcohol 0.5 Ethylhexyl Palmitate 0.5 Silica 0.5 Mica 0.3 TitaniumDioxide 0.2 Xanthan Gum 0.2 Dimethicone 0.2 Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.1 Algae Extract 0.06 Resveratrol 0.003Oligopeptide-1 0.00006 Excipients** q.s. *Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. **Excipients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 35% w/w, and preferably between 70 to 90% w/w.

TABLE 15* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water 53 Homosalate 9Glycerin 8 Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Octisalate) 5 Oxybenzone 5 Avobenzone3 Octocrylene 3 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 2 Cetearyl Alcohol 2 Dimethicone 2Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP 2 Copolymer Ceteareth-25 1Niacinamide 1 Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract 1 Phenoxyethanol 0.7Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 0.5 Disulfate Hydroxyacetophenone0.5 Jojoba Esters (optional) 0.5 Behenyl Alcohol (optional) 0.3 Silica0.3 Methyldihydrojasmonate 0.3 Ethylene Brassylate 0.2 Bisabolol 0.2Caprylyl Glycol 0.2 Disodium EDTA 0.2 Decylene Glycol 0.1 TocopherylAcetate 0.1 Adenosine (optional) 0.04 Malachite Extract (optional) 0.003Resveratrol 0.003 Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract (optional) 0.0005Oligopeptide-1 0.00006 Excipients** q.s. *Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. **Excipients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 35% w/w, and preferably between 40 to 60% w/w.

TABLE 16* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water 66 Isohexadecane7 Glycerin 5 Dimethicone 4 Pentylene Glycol 4 Aluminum StarchOctenylsuccinate 3 Cetearyl Alcohol 2 Glyceryl Stearate 1 AmmoniumAcryloyldimethyltaurate/VP 1 Copolymer Ceteareth-33 1 IsopropylPalmitate 1 Niacinamide 1 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Butylene Glycol 0.6Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.5 Prunus Mume Leaf Extract 0.4Acrylamide/Sodium 0.3 Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer Panthenol 0.3Methyldihydrojasmonate 0.1 Ethylene Brassylate 0.1 DipotassiumGlycyrrhizate 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Adenosine (optional) 0.04 MalachiteExtract (optional) 0.003 Resveratrol 0.003 Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract(optional) 0.0005 Oligopeptide-1 0.00006 Excipients** q.s. *Formulationcan be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75°C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled tostanding room temperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired,additional ingredients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. **Excipients can be added,for example, to modify the rheological properties of the composition.Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long as the amountof water in the composition is at least 35% w/w, and preferably between50 to 80% w/w.

TABLE 17* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water 72 Glycerin 5Isohexadecane 4 Butylene Glycol 3 Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2Isocetyl Stearate 2 Cetyl Alcohol 2 Cetyl Esters 2 Caprylyl Methicone 1Niacinamide 1 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.6 Glyceryl Stearate0.6 Acrylamide/Sodium 0.6 Acryloyldimethyltaurate CopolymerCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0.5 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 Stearic Acid0.5 PEG-100 Stearate 0.4 Prunus Mume Leaf Extract 0.4 Arachidyl Alcohol0.3 Triethanolamine 0.3 Dimethicone 0.2 Ceteareth-20 0.2 Caprylyl Glycol0.2 Behenyl Alcohol 0.2 Titanium Dioxide 0.2 Decylene Glycol 0.1Methyldihydrojasmonate 0.1 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1 Polysorbate 80 0.1Ethylene Brassylate 0.1 Acrylates/C10-13 Alkyl Acrylate 0.1 CrosspolymerDisodium EDTA 0.1 Adenosine (optional) 0.04 Malachite Extract (optional)0.003 Resveratrol 0.003 Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract (optional) 0.0005Oligopeptide-1 0.00006 Excipients** q.s. *Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. **Excipients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 35% w/w, and preferably between 55 to 85% w/w.

TABLE 18* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water 67 CetearylAlcohol 4 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 4 Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 3Acrylates Copolymer 3 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3 Propanediol 3 PPG-2Hydroxyethyl Coco/Isostearamide 3 Glycerin 2 Hydrolyzed Corn Starch 2Sodium Laureth Sulfate 1 Potassium Hydroxide 1 Magnesium AluminumSilicate 1 Coco-glucoside 0.7 Methyldihydrojasmonate 0.3 EthyleneBrassylate 0.3 Sodium Chloride 0.3 Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax/0.2 Cire De Carnauba Citric Acid 0.2 Disodium EDTA 0.2 Titanium Dioxide0.2 Lactose 0.1 Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin 0.1 TetramethylAcetyloctahydronaphthalenes 0.1 Niacinamide 0.01 Malachite Extract(optional) 0.0003 Resveratrol 0.0003 Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract(optional) 0.0001 Oligopeptide-1 0.000002 Excipients** q.s. *Formulationcan be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75°C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled tostanding room temperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired,additional ingredients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. **Excipients can be added,for example, to modify the rheological properties of the composition.Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long as the amountof water in the composition is at least 35% w/w, and preferably between50 to 80% w/w.

TABLE 19* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water 75 TEA-LaurylSulfate 10 Acrylates Copolymer 3 Propanediol 3 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 2Triethanolamine 2 PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco/Isostearamide 2 CoperniciaCerifera (Carnauba) Wax/ 0.2 Cire De Carnaube Sodium Chloride 0.2Disodium EDTA 0.2 Lactose 0.1 Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin 0.1 Glycerine0.03 or 0.007 Niacinamide 0.01 Resveratrol 0.003 Opuntia Tuna FruitExtract (optional) 0.0005 Malachite Extract (optional) 0.0003Oligopeptide-1 0.000002 Excipients** q.s. *Formulation can be preparedby mixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. **Excipients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 35% w/w, and preferably between 65 to 85% w/w.

Example 5 In Vitro Efficacy of Ingredients

The efficacy of the ingredients were determined by the followingmethods. The following are non-limiting assays that can be used in thecontext of the present invention. It should be recognized that othertesting procedures can be used, including, for example, objective andsubjective procedures.

It was determined that oligopeptide 1 inhibits tyrosinase, increaseselastin production, increases collagen stimulation, and inhibits TNF-α.It was also determined that niacinamide inhibits melanogenesis in B16cells. It was determined that Opuntia ficus-indica extract inhibitsCOX-1 and COX-2, inhibits lipoxygenase, and inhibits TNF-α. It was alsodetermined that malachite extract inhibits MMP1, inhibits COX-1 andCOX-2, inhibits lipoxygenase, and possesses antioxidant properties. Itwas determined that Prunus mume extract possesses antioxidantproperties, increases collagen stimulation, and increases lamininproduction. It was also determined that algae extract reduceskeratinocyte monolayer permeability. A summary of quantitative resultsis found in Table 20 and the methods used to determine the properties ofthe ingredients are provided below.

TABLE 20 Assay Ingredient Activity Inhibition of MMP1 Malachite extract−60% Inhibition of COX-1 Opuntia ficus-indica extract −65% Malachiteextract −47% Inhibition of COX-2 Opuntia ficus-indica extract −73%Malachite extract −37% Inhibition of Lipoxygenase Opuntia ficus-indicaextract −63% Malachite extract −26% Inhibition of TyrosinaseOligopeptide-1 −40% Inhibition of Melanogenesis Niacinamide −30% ElastinProduction Oligopeptide-1 +23% Collagen Stimulation Oligopeptide-1 +20%Prunus mume extract +71% Laminin Production Prunus mume extract +57%Inhibition of TNF-α Oligopeptide-1 −40% Opuntia ficus-indica extract−50% Antioxidant Capacity Malachite extract +29% Prunus mume extract+89% Resveratrol +100%  Keratinocyte Monolayer Algae extract −45%Permeability

Inhibition of Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 Enzyme (MMP1)—Malachite extracthas been shown to inhibit MMP1. MMPs are extracellular proteases thatplay a role in many normal and disease states by virtue of their broadsubstrate specificity. MMP1 substrates include collagen IV. The activityof MMP1 in the presence or absence of malachite extract was determinedusing the Molecular Probes Enz/Chek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay kit(#E12055). It was determined that malachite extract inhibits MMP1activity by 60%.

Briefly, this kit utilizes a fluorogenic gelatin substrate to detectMMP1 protease activity in vitro. Upon proteolytic cleavage of thefluorogenic gelatin substrate, bright green fluorescence was revealedand was monitored using a fluorescent microplate reader to measureenzymatic activity. Test materials or control reagents were incubated inthe presence or absence of the purified enzyme and substrate todetermine their protease inhibitor capacity.

Cyclooxygenase 1 (COX-1) and Cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2) Assay—Opuntiaficus-indica extract and malachite extract have been shown to inhibitCOX-1 and COX-2. These enzymes contribute to the inflammatory pathway.COX is a bifunctional enzyme exhibiting both cyclooxygenase andperoxidase activities. The cyclooxygenase activity converts arachidonicacid to a hydroperoxy endoperoxide (Prostaglandin G2; PGG2) and theperoxidase component reduces the endoperoxide (Prostaglandin H2; PGH2)to the corresponding alcohol, the precursor of prostaglandins,thromboxanes, and prostacyclins. The peroxidase activity of COX-1 andCOX-2 was determined in the presence or absence of Opuntia ficus-indicaextract or malachite extract using the Colorimetric COX (ovine)Inhibitor screening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical). It was determinedthat Opuntia ficus-indica extract inhibited COX-1 activity by 65% andCOX-2 by 73% and malachite extract inhibited COX-1 activity by 47% andCOX-2 activity by 37%.

COX-1 and COX-2 peroxidase activity was assayed colorimetrically bymonitoring the appearance of oxidizedN,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD). This inhibitorscreening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes in order to screenisozyme-specific inhibitors. According to manufacturer instructions andpurified enzyme and heme with or without test extracts were mixed inassay buffer and incubated with shaking for 15 min at room temperature.Following incubation, arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate wereadded to initiate the reaction. Color progression was evaluated bycolorimetric plate reading at 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 orCOX-2 activity was calculated and compared to non-treated controls todetermine the ability of test extracts to inhibit the activity of thepurified enzymes.

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay—Opuntia ficus-indica extract and malachiteextract have been shown to inhibit LO activity. LO contributes to theinflammatory pathway. LOs are non-heme iron-containing dioxygenases thatcatalyze the addition of molecular oxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate andarachidonate are the main substrates for LOs in plants and animals.Arachadonic acid may then be converted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE)acid derivatives, that are subsequently converted to leukotrienes,potent inflammatory mediators. The activity of LO was determined in thepresence or absence of Opuntia ficus-indica extract or malachiteextract, using the Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700,Cayman Chemical). It was determined that Opuntia ficus-indica extractinhibits LO activity by 63% and malachite extract inhibits LO activityby 26%.

LO activity was assayed by an accurate and convenient method forscreening lipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxidesgenerated from the incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) witharachidonic acid. Purified 15-lipoxygenase with and without the testingredients was mixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 10min at room temperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid wasadded to initiate the reaction and the mixtures were incubated for anadditional 10 min at room temperature. Colorimetric substrate was addedto terminate catalysis and color progression was evaluated byfluorescence plate reading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition oflipoxygenase activity was calculated compared to non-treated controls todetermine the ability of each test ingredient to inhibit the activity ofpurified enzyme.

Mushroom tyrosinase activity assay—Oligopeptide-1 was shown to inhibittyrosinase activity. In mammalian cells, tyrosinase catalyzes two stepsin the multi-step biosynthesis of melanin pigments from tyrosine (andfrom the polymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase is localized inmelanocytes and produces melanin (aromatic quinone compounds) thatimparts color to skin, hair, and eyes. The activity of tyrosinase on itssubstrate L-Dopa in the presence or absence of oligopeptide-1 wasdetermined using a colorimetric mushroom tyrosinase activity assay. Itwas determined that oligopeptide-1 inhibits tyrosinase by 40%.

Tyrosinase activity was assayed by measuring the ability of purifiedmushroom tyrosinase (Sigma) to oxidize its substrate, L-Dopa (Fisher),in the presence or absence of oligopeptide-1. Oxidation of L-DOPA by thetyrosinase produced a pigment that was evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinaseactivity was calculated and compared to non-treated controls todetermine the ability of test ingredients to inhibit the activity ofpurified enzyme. Test inhibition was compared with that of the knowntyrosinase inhibitor kojic acid (Sigma).

B16 Pigmentation Assay—Niacinamide was shown to inhibit melanogenesis.Melanogenesis is the process by which melanocytes produce melanin, anaturally produced pigment that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes.Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial to prevent skin darkening andlighten dark spots associated with aging. Melanogenesis in B16 cells wasdetermined in the presence or absence of niacinamide by measuringmelanin secretion. It was determined that niacinamide inhibitsmelanogenesis by 30%.

Melanogenesis was determined using B16-F1 melanocytes (ATCC), animmortalized mouse melanoma cell line. The endpoint of this assay was aspectrophotometric measurement of melanin production and cellularviability. B16-F1 melanocytes, were cultivated in standard DMEM growthmedium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂ andthen treated with or without niacinamide for 6 days. Followingincubation, melanin secretion was measured by absorbance at 405 nm andcellular viability was quantified.

Elastin Stimulation Assay—Oligopeptide-1 has been shown to increaseelastin production. Elastin is a connective tissue protein that helpsskin resume shape after stretching or contracting. Elastin is also animportant load-bearing protein used in places where mechanical energy isrequired to be stored. Elastin is made by linking many solubletropoelastin protein molecules, in a reaction catalyzed by lysyloxidase. Elastin production was determined in cultured human fibroblastsincubated in the presence or absence of oligopeptide-1. It wasdetermined that oligopeptide-1 increased elastin production by 23%.

Elastin secretion and elastin fibers were monitored by staining ofcultured human fibroblasts using antibodies directed against elastin.Human fibroblasts were treated with or without oligopeptide-1. Followingincubation, elastin content was measured using immunofluorescentantibodies directed against elastin.

Collagen Stimulation Assay—Oligopeptide-1 and Prunus mume extract havebeen shown to increase collagen stimulation. Collagen is anextracellular matrix protein critical for skin structure. Increasedsynthesis of collagen helps improve skin firmness and elasticity.Collagen stimulation was determined using a sandwich enzyme linkedimmuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from Takara (#MK101) by measuringproduction of procollagen peptide (a precursor to collagen) in humanepidermal fibroblasts incubated in the presence or absence ofoligopeptide-1 or Prunus mume extract. It was determined thatoligopeptide-1 increased collagen stimulation by 20% and Prunus mumeextract increased collagen stimulation by 71%.

Collagen stimulation can be monitored by a spectrophotometricmeasurement that reflects the presence of procollagen peptide andcellular viability. The assay employs the quantitative sandwich enzymeimmunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibody specific forprocollagen peptide has been pre-coated onto microplate wells.Subconfluent normal human adult epidermal fibroblasts (CascadeBiologics) cultivated in standard DMEM growth medium with 10% fetalbovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂, were treated with orwithout oligopeptide-1 or Prunus mume extract for 3 days. Followingincubation, cell culture medium was collected (samples and controls) andthe amount of procollagen peptide secretion was quantified using asandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from Takara(#MK101). Standards, controls and/or samples were pipetted into thewells precoated with anti-procollagen peptide antibody and theprocollagen peptide present was allowed to be bound by the immobilizedantibody. After washing away any unbound substances, an enzyme-linkedpolyclonal antibody specific for procollagen peptide was added to thewells. Following a wash to remove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, asubstrate solution was added to the wells that allowed color developmentin proportion to the amount of procollagen peptide bound in the initialstep. The color development was stopped and the color development wasmeasured at 450 nm by a microplate reader.

Laminin Stimulation Assay—Prunus mume extract has been shown to increaselaminin production. Laminin and fibronectin are major proteins in thedermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) (also referred to as the basementmembrane). The DEJ is located between the dermis and the epidermisinterlocks forming fingerlike projections called rete ridges. The cellsof the epidermis receive their nutrients from the blood vessels in thedermis. The rete ridges increase the surface area of the epidermis thatis exposed to these blood vessels and the needed nutrients. The DEJprovides adhesion of the two tissue compartments and governs thestructural integrity of the skin. Laminin and fibronectin are twostructural glycoproteins located in the DEJ. Considered the glue thatholds the cells together, laminin and fibronectin are secreted by dermalfibroblasts to help facilitate intra- and inter-cellular adhesion of theepidermal calls to the DEJ. Laminin secretion was monitored in culturedhuman fibroblasts using immunofluorescent antibodies directed againstlaminin in an enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA). It wasdetermined that Prunus mume extract increased laminin secretion by 57%.

Laminin secretion was monitored by quantifying laminin in cellsupernatants of cultured human fibroblasts treated for 3 days withculture medium with or without 1.0% final concentration of Prunus mumeextract. Following incubation, laminin content was measured usingimmunofluorescent antibodies directed against laminin in an enzymelinked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA). Measurements were normalized forcellular metabolic activity, as determined by bioconversion of3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium(MTS).

Inhibition of Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α)—Oligopeptide-1 andOpuntia ficus-indica extract have been shown to inhibit TNF-α productionin keratinocytes. TNF-α is the prototype ligand of the TNF superfamily.It is a pleiotropic cytokine that plays a central role in inflammation.Increase in its expression is associated with an up regulation inpro-inflammatory activity. The bioassay used to analyze the effect ofoligopeptide-1 and Opuntia ficus-indica extract used aspectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of TNF-α andcellular viability. It was determined that oligopeptide-1 and Opuntiaficus-indica extract inhibits TNF-α production in keratinocytes by 40%and 50%.

Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes (Cascade Biologics)cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium (Cascade Biologics) at 37°C. in 5% CO2, were treated with phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA, 10ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, #P1585-1MG) and either oligopeptide-1 or Opuntiaficus-indica extract (treated samples) or no additional treatment(untreated sample) for 6 hours. PMA causes a dramatic increase in TNF-αsecretion which peaks at 6 hours after treatment. Following incubation,cell culture medium was collected and the amount of TNF-α secretionquantified using a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA)from R&D Systems (#DTA00C).

Briefly, the ELISA assay employed the quantitative sandwich enzymeimmunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibody specific for TNF-αwas been pre-coated onto a microplate. Standards and treated anduntreated samples were pipetted into the microplate wells to allow anyTNF-α present to be bound by the immobilized antibody. After washingaway any unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibodyspecific for TNF-α was added to the wells. Following a wash to removeany unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution was added tothe wells to allow color development in proportion to the amount ofTNF-α bound in the initial step. The color development was stopped at aspecific time and the intensity of the color at 450 nm was measuredusing a microplate reader.

Antioxidant Capacity—Malachite extract, Prunus mume extract, andresveratrol have been shown to possess antioxidant capacity. Theantioxidant system of living organisms includes enzymes such assuperoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase;macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin; and anarray of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum ofendogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the totalantioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all thedifferent antioxidants provides greater protection against attack byreactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone.Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biologicalinformation compared to that obtained by the measurement of individualcomponents, as it accounts for the cumulative effect of all antioxidantspresent in plasma and body fluids. It was determined that malachiteextract, Prunus mume extract, and resveratrol possess an antioxidantcapacity of 29%, 89%, and 100% of trolox, respectively. Theseantioxidant capacities indicate that malachite extract and Prunus mumeextract is capable of reducing oxidizing agents (oxidants).

Antioxidant capacity was determined by an Oxygen Radical Absorption (orAbsorbance) Capacity (ORAC) assay. This assay quantifies the degree andlength of time it takes to inhibit the action of an oxidizing agent,such as oxygen radicals, that are known to cause damage to cells (e.g.,skin cells). The ORAC value of control, malachite extract, Prunus mumeextract, and resveratrol was determined by the Zen-Bio ORAC Anti-oxidantAssay kit (#AOX-2). Briefly, this assay measures the loss of fluoresceinfluorescence over time due to the peroxyl-radical formation by thebreakdown of AAPH (2,2′-axobis-2-methyl propanimidamide,dihydrochloride). Trolox, a water soluble vitamin E analog, serves aspositive antioxidant control that inhibits fluorescein decay in a dosedependent manner.

Decreases Keratinocyte Monolayer Permeability—Algae extract has beenshown to decrease keratinocyte monolayer permeability. This is a measureof skin barrier integrity. Keratinocyte monolayer permeability intreated and non-treated keratinocytes were determined using the In VitroVascular Permeability assay by Millipore (ECM642). This assay analyzesendothelial cell adsorption, transport and permeability. It wasdetermined that algae extract decreases keratinocyte monolayerpermeability by 45%.

Samples were tested according to the In Vitro Vascular Permeabilityassay manufacturer's instructions. Briefly, adult human epidermalkeratinocytes from Life Technologies (C-005-5C) were seeded onto aporous collagen-coated membrane within a collection well. Thekeratinocytes were incubated in Epilife growth media with calcium fromLife Technologies (M-EP-500-CA) supplemented with Keratinocyte GrowthSupplement (HKGS) from Life Technologies (S-101-5) for 24 hours at 37°C. and 5% CO₂. This incubation time allowed the cells to form amonolayer and occlude the membrane pores. The media was then replacedwith fresh media with (test sample)/without (non-treated control) testcompounds/extracts and the keratinocytes were incubated for anadditional 48 hours at 37° C. and 5% CO₂. To determine permeability ofthe keratinocyte monolayer after incubation with/without the testcompound/extract, the media was replaced with fresh media containing ahigh molecular weight Fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC)-Dextran and thekeratinocytes are incubated for 4 hours at 37° C. and 5% CO₂. During the4 hours incubation, FITC passed through the keratinocytes monolayer andporous membrane into the collection well at a rate proportional to themonolayer's permeability. After the 4 hour incubation, cell viabilityand the content of FITC in the collection wells was determined. For theFITC content, the media in the collection well was collected andfluorescence of the media determined at 480 nm (Em) when excited at 520nm. Percent permeability and percent change in comparison to thenon-treated controls were determined by the following equations: PercentPermeability=((Mean Ex/Em of test sample)/Mean Ex/Em untreatedcontrol)*100; Percent Change=Percent Permeability of test sample−PercentPermeability of untreated control.

Example 6 Clinical Efficacy of Compositions

The compositions described in Tables 14 through 19 have been shown to:improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, texture/smoothness,overall appearance, and increase elasticity and radiance/luminosity. Theobjective of this study was to assess the effectiveness of use of aregimen of either the compositions of Tables 14, 15, 16, and 18 orcompositions of Tables 14, 15, 17, and 19 on the ability to improve theappearance of facial and neck skin. The study assessed the skin throughexpert clinical grading. It was determined that both regimensstatistically significantly improve the appearance of skin fine lines(sub-orbital), fine lines (global), wrinkles (global),radiance/luminosity, texture/smoothness (visual), texture/smoothness(tactile), elasticity (tactile) and overall appearance after four,eight, and twelve weeks of test regimen use, as well as skin tone(clarity), tone (evenness) and firmness (visual) after eight and twelveweeks and wrinkles (sub-orbital) after twelve weeks.

Briefly, 62 human subjects, aged 25 to 45 years (average age 37.6±5.3)with presence of early signs of facial skin aging participated in a 12week, monadic evaluation of the compositions of Tables 14 through 19when used on the face, neck, and eye area. Subjects were pre-screenedand assigned into one of the two regimen groups based on their skintype. Regimen use was divided approximately equally, with 34 subjectswith combination/oily skin using the compositions of Tables 14, 15, 17,and 19 and 28 subjects with normal/dry skin using the compositions ofTables 14, 15, 16, and 18.

All subjects discontinued use of all facial treatment productsapproximately one week prior to the initial, baseline visit. At thebaseline visit and at 4, 8, and 12 weeks of use of the compositions ofTables 14 through 19, expert evaluation of facial and neck fine lines(sub-orbital and global), wrinkles (sub-orbital and global),radiance/luminosity, texture/smoothness (visual and tactile), skin tone(clarity and evenness), firmness (visual), elasticity (tactile), andoverall appearance were assessed. The mean expert clinical graderevaluations at 4, 8, and 12 weeks of use were compared to the baselinemeasurement and statistically analyzed to determine statisticalsignificance (95% confidence level (p≤0.05)).

Subjects were instructed to apply the assigned cleanser formulation ofTable 18 or 19 to the face and neck twice a day (morning and evening);the day cream formulation of Table 15 to the face and neck in themorning; the assigned night cream formulation of Table 16 or 17 to theface and neck in the evening; and the eye cream formulation of Table 14under and around the eye area twice a day (morning and evening).

A summary of quantitative results is found in Table 21 below.

TABLE 21 Mean Percent of Percent Subjects Improvement Showing P-ValueTime Mean ± From BL Improvement TX vs. Assessment Point SD mean From BLBL Fine Lines Baseline 3.68± (Sub-Orbital) Week 4 3.14± 11.60% 71.0%<0.001* Week 8 3.10± 11.81% 64.5% <0.001* Week 12 2.74± 21.61% 80.6%<0.001* Fine Lines Baseline 3.40± (Global) Week 4 3.17± 2.63% 64.5%0.038* Week 8 2.85± 11.58% 74.2% <0.001* Week 12 2.38± 26.57% 85.5%<0.001* Wrinkles Baseline 2.39± (Sub-Orbital) Week 4 2.29± NI 53.2%0.298 Week 8 2.27± NI 56.5% 0.186 Week 12 1.88± 12.21% 69.4% <0.001*Wrinkles Baseline 3.01± (Global) Week 4 2.72± 0.90% 59.7% 0.009* Week 82.51± 8.12% 69.4% <0.001* Week 12 2.12± 22.69% 77.4% <0.001* Radiance/Baseline 4.68± Luminosity Week 4 3.95± 13.03% 79.0% <0.001* Week 8 3.04±32.51% 95.2% <0.001* Week 12 2.28± 49.13% 98.4% <0.001* Texture/Baseline 5.13± Smoothness Week 4 4.59± 7.85% 72.6% <0.001* (Visual) Week8 4.05± 18.97% 83.9% <0.001* Week 12 2.92± 42.05%  100% <0.001* Texture/Baseline 3.87± Smoothness Week 4 2.99± 17.75% 77.4% <0.001* (Tactile)Week 8 2.59± 28.03% 88.7% <0.001* Week 12 2.28± 36.78% 95.2% <0.001*Skin Tone Baseline 4.17± (Clarity) Week 4 4.10± NI 51.6% 0.493 Week 83.79± 5.34% 62.9% 0.006* Week 12 2.91± 28.18% 85.5% <0.001* Skin ToneBaseline 4.12± (Evenness) Week 4 3.97± 1.24% 62.9% 0.107 Week 8 3.65±9.12% 72.6% <0.001* Week 12 2.90± 27.95% 88.7% <0.001* Firmness Baseline3.15± (Visual) Week 4 3.00± 2.29% 53.2% 0.096 Week 8 2.81± 7.67% 64.5%0.001* Week 12 2.30± 24.19% 88.7% <0.001* Elasticity Baseline 3.38±(Tactile) Week 4 2.85± 12.08% 72.6% <0.001* Week 8 2.73± 15.31% 74.2%<0.001* Week 12 2.18± 32.06% 93.5% <0.001* Overall Baseline 4.22±Appearance Week 4 3.65± 12.54% 85.5% <0.001* Week 8 3.21± 22.42% 90.3%<0.001* Week 12 2.51± 39.23% 95.2% <0.001* NI = No Improvement*Indicates a statistically significant improvement compared to baseline,p ≤ 0.05

In conclusion, the use of a regimen of the compositions of Tables 14 to19 significantly improves overall skin appearance, decreases facial andneck fine lines (sub-orbital and global), decreases wrinkles(sub-orbital and global), improves radiance/luminosity, improvestexture/smoothness (visual and tactile), improves skin tone (clarity andevenness), improves firmness (visual), and improves elasticity(tactile).

Example 7 Assays that can be Use to Test Compositions

Assays that can be used to determine the efficacy of any one of theingredients or any combination of ingredients or compositions havingsaid combination of ingredients disclosed throughout the specificationand claims can be determined by methods known to those of ordinary skillin the art. The following are non-limiting assays that can be used inthe context of the present invention. It should be recognized that othertesting procedures can be used, including, for example, objective andsubjective procedures.

B16 Pigmentation Assay: Melanogenesis is the process by whichmelanocytes produce melanin, a naturally produced pigment that impartscolor to skin, hair, and eyes. Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial toprevent skin darkening and lighten dark spots associated with aging.This bioassay utilizes B16-F1 melanocytes (ATCC), an immortalized mousemelanoma cell line, to analyze the effect of compounds on melanogenesis.The endpoint of this assay is a spectrophotometric measurement ofmelanin production and cellular viability. B16-F1 melanocytes, can becultivated in standard DMEM growth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum(Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂ and then treated with any one of theactive ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositions havingsaid combinations disclosed in the specification for 6 days. Followingincubation, melanin secretion is measured by absorbance at 405 nm andcellular viability is quantified.

Collagen Stimulation Assay: Collagen is an extracellular matrix proteincritical for skin structure. Increased synthesis of collagen helpsimprove skin firmness and elasticity. This bioassay can be used toexamine the effect of any one of the active ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification on the production of procollagen peptide (a precursor tocollagen) by human epidermal fibroblasts. The endpoint of this assay isa spectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence ofprocollagen peptide and cellular viability. The assay employs thequantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonalantibody specific for procollagen peptide has been pre-coated onto amicroplate. Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and anyprocollagen peptide present is bound by the immobilized antibody. Afterwashing away any unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonalantibody specific for procollagen peptide can be added to the wells.Following a wash to remove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, asubstrate solution can be added to the wells and color develops inproportion to the amount of procollagen peptide bound in the initialstep using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. The colordevelopment can be stopped and the intensity of the color can bemeasured. For generation of samples and controls, subconfluent normalhuman adult epidermal fibroblasts (Cascade Biologics) cultivated instandard DMEM growth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at37° C. in 10% CO₂, can be treated with each of the combination ofingredients or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification for 3 days. Following incubation, cell culture medium canbe collected and the amount of procollagen peptide secretion quantifiedusing a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from Takara(#MK101).

Elastin Stimulation Assay: Elastin is a connective tissue protein thathelps skin resume shape after stretching or contracting. Elastin is alsoan important load-bearing protein used in places where mechanical energyis required to be stored. Elastin is made by linking many solubletropoelastin protein molecules, in a reaction catalyzed by lysyloxidase. Elastin secretion and elastin fibers can be monitored incultured human fibroblasts by staining of cultured human fibroblastsusing immunofluorescent antibodies directed against elastin.

Laminin Stimulation Assay: Laminin and fibronectin are major proteins inthe dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) (also referred to as the basementmembrane). The DEJ is located between the dermis and the epidermisinterlocks forming fingerlike projections called rete ridges. The cellsof the epidermis receive their nutrients from the blood vessels in thedermis. The rete ridges increase the surface area of the epidermis thatis exposed to these blood vessels and the needed nutrients. The DEJprovides adhesion of the two tissue compartments and governs thestructural integrity of the skin. Laminin and fibronectin are twostructural glycoproteins located in the DEJ. Considered the glue thatholds the cells together, laminin and fibronectin are secreted by dermalfibroblasts to help facilitate intra- and inter-cellular adhesion of theepidermal calls to the DEJ. Laminin secretion can be monitored byquantifying laminin in cell supernatants of cultured human fibroblaststreated for 3 days with culture medium with or without 1.0% finalconcentration of the test ingredient(s). Following incubation, laminincontent can be measured using immunofluorescent antibodies directedagainst laminin in an enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA).Measurements are normalized for cellular metabolic activity, asdetermined by bioconversion of3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium(MTS).

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay: The prototype ligand of theTNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropic cytokine that plays a centralrole in inflammation. Increase in its expression is associated with anup regulation in pro-inflammatory activity. This bioassay can be used toanalyze the effect of any one of the active ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification on the production of TNF-α by human epidermalkeratinocytes. The endpoint of this assay can be a spectrophotometricmeasurement that reflects the presence of TNF-α and cellular viability.The assay employs the quantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay techniquewhereby a monoclonal antibody specific for TNF-α has been pre-coatedonto a microplate. Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wellsand any TNF-α present is bound by the immobilized antibody. Afterwashing away any unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonalantibody specific for TNF-α can be added to the wells. Following a washto remove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution canbe added to the wells and color develops in proportion to the amount ofTNF-α bound in the initial step using a microplate reader for detectionat 450 nm. The color development can be stopped and the intensity of thecolor can be measured. Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes(Cascade Biologics) cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium(Cascade Biologics) at 37° C. in 5% CO₂, can be treated with phorbol12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA, 10 ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, #P1585-1MG) andany one of the active ingredients, combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification for6 hours. PMA has been shown to cause a dramatic increase in TNF-αsecretion which peaks at 6 hours after treatment. Following incubation,cell culture medium can be collected and the amount of TNF-α secretionquantified using a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA)from R&D Systems (#DTA00C).

Antioxidant (AO) Assay: An in vitro bioassay that measures the totalanti-oxidant capacity of any one of the ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. The assay relies on the ability of antioxidants in thesample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®+ bymetmyoglobin. The antioxidant system of living organisms includesenzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathioneperoxidase; macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin;and an array of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum ofendogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the totalantioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all thedifferent antioxidants provides greater protection against attack byreactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone.Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biologicalinformation compared to that obtained by the measurement of individualcomponents, as it considers the cumulative effect of all antioxidantspresent in plasma and body fluids. The capacity of the antioxidants inthe sample to prevent ABTS oxidation is compared with that of Trolox, awater-soluble tocopherol analogue, and is quantified as molar Troloxequivalents. Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (AnnArbor, Mich. USA) can be used as an in vitro bioassay to measure thetotal anti-oxidant capacity of each of any one of the activeingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification. The protocol can befollowed according to manufacturer recommendations. The assay relied onantioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®+ bymetmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to preventABTS oxidation can be compared with that Trolox, a water-solubletocopherol analogue, and can be quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent.

ORAC Assay: Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) ofany one of the active ingredients, combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canalso be assayed by measuring the antioxidant activity of suchingredients or compositions. Antioxidant activity indicates a capabilityto reduce oxidizing agents (oxidants). This assay quantifies the degreeand length of time it takes to inhibit the action of an oxidizing agent,such as oxygen radicals, that are known to cause damage to cells (e.g.,skin cells). The ORAC value of any one of the active ingredients,combination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification can be determined by methods known tothose of ordinary skill in the art (see U.S. Publication Nos.2004/0109905 and 2005/0163880; and commercially available kits such asZen-Bio ORAC Anti-oxidant Assay kit (#AOX-2)). The Zen-Bio ORACAnti-oxidant Assay kit measures the loss of fluorescein fluorescenceover time due to the peroxyl-radical formation by the breakdown of AAPH(2,2′-axobis-2-methyl propanimidamide, dihydrochloride). Trolox, a watersoluble vitamin E analog, serves as positive control inhibitionfluorescein decay in a dose dependent manner.

Mushroom tyrosinase activity assay: In mammalian cells, tyrosinasecatalyzes two steps in the multi-step biosynthesis of melanin pigmentsfrom tyrosine (and from the polymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase islocalized in melanocytes and produces melanin (aromatic quinonecompounds) that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes. Purified mushroomtyrosinase (Sigma) can be incubated with its substrate L-Dopa (Fisher)in the presence or absence of each of the active ingredients, any one ofthe combination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification. Pigment formation can be evaluated bycolorimetric plate reading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroomtyrosinase activity can be calculated compared to non-treated controlsto determine the ability of test ingredients or combinations thereof toinhibit the activity of purified enzyme. Test extract inhibition wascompared with that of kojic acid (Sigma).

Matrix Metalloproteinase 3 and 9 Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay: Anin vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substratesinclude collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substratesinclude collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric DrugDiscovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9(AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPsusing a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavagesite peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M-1 cm-1 at pH 6.0 and above 7). Theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe assayed.

Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 Enzyme Activity (MMP1) Assay: An in vitromatrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs are extracellularproteases that play a role in many normal and disease states by virtueof their broad substrate specificity. MMP1 substrates include collagenIV. The Molecular Probes Enz/Chek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay kit(#E12055) utilizes a fluorogenic gelatin substrate to detect MMP1protease activity. Upon proteolytic cleavage, bright green fluorescenceis revealed and may be monitored using a fluorescent microplate readerto measure enzymatic activity.

The Enz/Chek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay kit (#E12055) from Invitrogenis designed as an in vitro assay to measure MMP1 enzymatic activity. Theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe assayed. The assay relies upon the ability of purified MMP1 enzyme todegrade a fluorogenic gelatin substrate. Once the substrate isspecifically cleaved by MMP1 bright green fluorescence is revealed andmay be monitored using a fluorescent microplate reader. Test materialsare incubated in the presence or absence of the purified enzyme andsubstrate to determine their protease inhibitor capacity.

Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay: An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1,-2) inhibition assay. COX is a bifunctional enzyme exhibiting bothcyclooxygenase and peroxidase activities. The cyclooxygenase activityconverts arachidonic acid to a hydroperoxy endoperoxide (ProstaglandinG2; PGG2) and the peroxidase component reduces the endoperoxide(Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to the corresponding alcohol, the precursor ofprostaglandins, thromboxanes, and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitorscreening assay measures the peroxidase component of cyclooxygenases.The peroxidase activity is assayed colorimetrically by monitoring theappearance of oxidized N,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD).This inhibitor screening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes inorder to screen isozyme-specific inhibitors. The Colormetric COX (ovine)Inhibitor screening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical) can be used toanalyze the effects of each of the active ingredients, any one of thecombination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification on the activity of purified cyclooxygnaseenzyme (COX-1 or COX-2). According to manufacturer instructions,purified enzyme, heme and test extracts can be mixed in assay buffer andincubated with shaking for 15 min at room temperature. Followingincubation, arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate can be added toinitiate the reaction. Color progression can be evaluated bycolorimetric plate reading at 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 orCOX-2 activity can be calculated compared to non-treated controls todetermine the ability of test extracts to inhibit the activity ofpurified enzyme.

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay: An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay.LOs are non-heme iron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the additionof molecular oxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are themain substrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may thenbe converted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, thatare subsequently converted to leukotrienes, potent inflammatorymediators. This assay provides an accurate and convenient method forscreening lipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxidesgenerated from the incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) witharachidonic acid. The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700,Cayman Chemical) can be used to determine the ability of each of theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification toinhibit enzyme activity. Purified 15-lipoxygenase and test ingredientscan be mixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 10 min atroom temperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid can be added toinitiate the reaction and the mixtures can be incubated for anadditional 10 min at room temperature. Colorimetric substrate can beadded to terminate catalysis and color progression can be evaluated byfluorescence plate reading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition oflipoxyganse activity can be calculated compared to non-treated controlsto determine the ability of each of the active ingredients, any one ofthe combination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification to inhibit the activity of purifiedenzyme.

Elastase Assay: EnzChek® Elastase Assay (Kit #E-12056) from MolecularProbes (Eugene, Oreg. USA) can be used as an in vitro enzyme inhibitionassay for measuring inhibition of elastase activity for each of theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification.The EnzChek kit contains soluble bovine neck ligament elastin that canbe labeled with dye such that the conjugate's fluorescence can bequenched. The non-fluorescent substrate can be digested by elastase orother proteases to yield highly fluorescent fragments. The resultingincrease in fluorescence can be monitored with a fluorescence microplatereader. Digestion products from the elastin substrate have absorptionmaxima at ˜505 nm and fluorescence emission maxima at ˜515 nm. Thepeptide, N-methoxysuccinyl-Ala-Ala-Pro-Val-chloromethyl ketone, can beused as a selective, collective inhibitor of elastase when utilizing theEnzChek Elastase Assay Kit for screening for elastase inhibitors.

Oil Control Assay: An assay to measure reduction of sebum secretion fromsebaceous glands and/or reduction of sebum production from sebaceousglands can be assayed by using standard techniques known to those havingordinary skill in the art. In one instance, the forehead can be used.Each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification can be applied to one portion of the forehead once ortwice daily for a set period of days (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9,10, 11, 12, 13, 14, or more days), while another portion of the foreheadis not treated with the composition. After the set period of daysexpires, then sebum secretion can be assayed by application of fineblotting paper to the treated and untreated forehead skin. This is doneby first removing any sebum from the treated and untreated areas withmoist and dry cloths. Blotting paper can then be applied to the treatedand untreated areas of the forehead, and an elastic band can be placedaround the forehead to gently press the blotting paper onto the skin.After 2 hours the blotting papers can be removed, allowed to dry andthen transilluminated. Darker blotting paper correlates with more sebumsecretion (or lighter blotting paper correlates with reduced sebumsecretion.

Erythema Assay: An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced byapplying a 0.2% solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of asubject. The area is protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After24 hrs, the patch is removed and the irritation-induced redness can beassessed using the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* valuemeasures changes in skin color in the red region. Immediately afterreading, the area is treated with the active ingredients, any one of thecombination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification. Repeat measurements can be taken atregular intervals to determine the formula's ability to reduce rednessand irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay: Skin moisture/hydration benefits can bemeasured by using impedance measurements with the Nova Dermal PhaseMeter. The impedance meter measures changes in skin moisture content.The outer layer of the skin has distinct electrical properties. Whenskin is dry it conducts electricity very poorly. As it becomes morehydrated increasing conductivity results. Consequently, changes in skinimpedance (related to conductivity) can be used to assess changes inskin hydration. The unit can be calibrated according to instrumentinstructions for each testing day. A notation of temperature andrelative humidity can also be made. Subjects can be evaluated asfollows: prior to measurement they can equilibrate in a room withdefined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) and temperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Threeseparate impedance readings can be taken on each side of the face,recorded, and averaged. The T5 setting can be used on the impedancemeter which averages the impedance values of every five secondsapplication to the face. Changes can be reported with statisticalvariance and significance. Each of the active ingredients, any one ofthe combination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification can be assayed according to this process.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay: Skin clarityand the reduction in freckles and age spots can be evaluated using aMinolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can be assessed to determineirritation potential due to product treatment using the a* values of theMinolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes in skin color in thered region. This is used to determine whether each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification is inducingirritation. The measurements can be made on each side of the face andaveraged, as left and right facial values. Skin clarity can also bemeasured using the Minolta Meter. The measurement is a combination ofthe a*, b, and L values of the Minolta Meter and is related to skinbrightness, and correlates well with skin smoothness and hydration. Skinreading is taken as above. In one non-limiting aspect, skin clarity canbe described as L/C where C is chroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay: Clinical grading of skin tone canbe performed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10) even skin ofuniform, pinkish brown color. No dark, erythremic, or scaly patches uponexamination with a hand held magnifying lens. Microtexture of the skinvery uniform upon touch; (7) even skin tone observed withoutmagnification. No scaly areas, but slight discolorations either due topigmentation or erythema. No discolorations more than 1 cm in diameter;(4) both skin discoloration and uneven texture easily noticeable. Slightscaliness. Skin rough to the touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skincoloration and texture. Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration,either hypopigmented, erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of unevencolor more than 1 cm in diameter. Evaluations were made independently bytwo clinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay: Clinical grading of skinsmoothness can be analyzed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10)smooth, skin is moist and glistening, no resistance upon dragging fingeracross surface; (7) somewhat smooth, slight resistance; (4) rough,visibly altered, friction upon rubbing; and (1) rough, flaky, unevensurface. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay With Methods Disclosed inPackman et al. (1978): Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also beassessed visually by using the methods disclosed in Packman et al.(1978). For example, at each subject visit, the depth, shallowness andthe total number of superficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject canbe carefully scored and recorded. A numerical score was obtained bymultiplying a number factor times a depth/width/length factor. Scoresare obtained for the eye area and mouth area (left and right sides) andadded together as the total wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer: Skin firmness can bemeasured using a Hargens ballistometer, a device that evaluates theelasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping a small body onto theskin and recording its first two rebound peaks. The ballistometry is asmall lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip (4 square mm-contactarea) was used. The probe penetrates slightly into the skin and resultsin measurements that are dependent upon the properties of the outerlayers of the skin, including the stratum corneum and outer epidermisand some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas: The appearance oflines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated using replicas, which isthe impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubber like material canbe used. The replica can be analyzed by image analysis. Changes in thevisibility of lines and wrinkles can be objectively quantified via thetaking of silicon replicas form the subjects' face and analyzing thereplicas image using a computer image analysis system. Replicas can betaken from the eye area and the neck area, and photographed with adigital camera using a low angle incidence lighting. The digital imagescan be analyzed with an image processing program and are of the replicascovered by wrinkles or fine lines was determined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method: Thesurface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic meanof all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profileheight relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximumvertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rzwhich is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values aregiven as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardizedprior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Valuecan be computed by the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness;l_(m)=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of thelocation of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay: In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of eachof the active ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe evaluated by using a skin analog, such as, for example, MELANODERM™.Melanocytes, one of the cells in the skin analog, stain positively whenexposed to L-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), a precursor of melanin.The skin analog, MELANODERM™, can be treated with a variety of basescontaining each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification or with the base alone as a control. Alternatively, anuntreated sample of the skin analog can be used as a control.

Production of Filaggrin—Changes in the production of filaggrin inkeratinocytes due to each of the active ingredients, any one of thecombination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification can be measured. Filaggrin is theprecursor to Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) in the skin. IncreasedNMF increases the moisture content of the skin. Filaggrin production intreated and non-treated keratinocytes can be determined using a bioassaythat analyzes filaggrin concentration in keratinocyte cell lysates. Anon-limiting example of a bioassay that can be used to quantifyfilaggrin production is the PROTEINSIMPLE® Simon™ western blottingprotocol. For each sample, normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK)are grown in EPI-200—Mattek Epilife® growth media with calcium from LifeTechnologies (M-EP-500-CA). NHEK are incubated in growth mediumovernight at 37° C. in 5% CO₂ prior to treatment. NHEK are thenincubated in growth medium with 1% test compound/extract or nocompound/extract (negative control) for 24 to 36 hours. The NHEK canthen be washed, collected, and stored on ice or colder until lysed onice using a lysis buffer and sonication. The protein concentrations ofthe samples can be determined and used to normalize the samples. Thelysates can be stored at −80° C. until use in the quantification assay.

The PROTEINSIMPLE® Simon™ western blotting bioassay assay employs aquantitative western blotting immunoassay technique using an antibodyspecific for filaggrin to quantitatively detect filaggrin in the testsamples. Cell samples are lysed and normalized for proteinconcentration. Normalized samples and molecular weight standards canthen be loaded and ran on a denatured protein separation gel usingcapillary electrophoresis. The proteins in the gel are immobilized andimmunoprobed using a primary antibody specific for filaggrin. Theimmobilized proteins can then be immunoprobed with an enzyme-linkeddetection antibody that binds the primary antibody. A chemiluminescentsubstrate solution can then be added to the immobilized proteins toallow chemiluminescent development in proportion to the amount offilaggrin bound in the immobilization. The chemiluminescent developmentis stopped at a specific time and the intensity of the chemiluminescentsignal can be measured and compared to positive and negative controls.

Production of Occludin—Changes in the production of occludin inkeratinocytes due to each of the active ingredients, any one of thecombination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification can be measured. Occludin is a proteincritical to the formulation of tight junctions and the skin's moisturebarrier function. A non-limiting example of how occludin production intreated and non-treated keratinocytes can be determined is by the use ofa bioassay that analyzes occludin concentration in keratinocyte celllysates. The bioassay can be performed using PROTEINSIMPLE® Simon™western blotting protocol. For the samples, adult human epidermalkeratinocytes (HEKa) from Life Technologies (C-005-5C) can be grown at37° C. and 5% CO2 for 24 hours in Epilife growth media with calcium fromLife Technologies (M-EP-500-CA) supplemented with Keratinocyte GrowthSupplement (HKGS) from Life Technologies (S-101-5). HEKa are thenincubated in growth medium with test compound/extract, nocompound/extract for negative control, or with 1 mM CaCl₂ for positivecontrol for 24 to 48 hours. The HEKa are then washed, collected, andstored on ice or colder until lysed on ice using a lysis buffer andsonication. The protein concentrations of the samples can be determinedand used to normalize the samples. The lysates are stored at −80° C.until use in the bioassay.

The PROTEINSIMPLE® Simon™ western blotting bioassay assay employs aquantitative western blotting immunoassay technique using an antibodyspecific for occludin to quantitatively detect occludin in the testsamples. Cell samples are lysed and normalized for proteinconcentration. Normalized samples and molecular weight standards arethen loaded and ran on a denatured protein separation gel usingcapillary electrophoresis. The proteins in the gel are then immobilizedand immunoprobed using a primary antibody specific for occludin. Theimmobilized proteins are immunoprobed with an enzyme-linked detectionantibody that binds the primary antibody. A chemiluminescent substratesolution is then added to the immobilized proteins to allowchemiluminescent development in proportion to the amount of occludinbound in the immobilization. The chemiluminescent development can bestopped at a specific time and the intensity of the chemiluminescentsignal can be measured and compared to positive and negative controls.

Keratinocyte Monolayer Permeability—Changes in the permeability of akeratinocyte monolayer due to each of the active ingredients, any one ofthe combination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification can be measured. Keratinocyte monolayerpermeability is a measure of skin barrier integrity. Keratinocytemonolayer permeability in treated and non-treated keratinocytes can bedetermined using, as a non-limiting example, the In Vitro VascularPermeability assay by Millipore (ECM642). This assay analyzesendothelial cell adsorption, transport, and permeability. Briefly, adulthuman epidermal keratinocytes from Life Technologies (C-005-5C) can beseeded onto a porous collagen-coated membrane within a collection well.The keratinocytes are then incubated for 24 hours at 37° C. and 5% CO₂in Epilife growth media with calcium from Life Technologies(M-EP-500-CA) supplemented with Keratinocyte Growth Supplement (HKGS)from Life Technologies (S-101-5). This incubation time allows the cellsto form a monolayer and occlude the membrane pores. The media is thenreplaced with fresh media with (test sample) or without (non-treatedcontrol) test compounds/extracts and the keratinocytes are incubated foran additional 48 hours at 37° C. and 5% CO₂. To determine permeabilityof the keratinocyte monolayer after incubation with/without the testcompound/extract, the media is replaced with fresh media containing ahigh molecular weight Fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC)-Dextran and thekeratinocytes are incubated for 4 hours at 37° C. and 5% CO₂. During the4 hours incubation, FITC can pass through the keratinocytes monolayerand porous membrane into the collection well at a rate proportional tothe monolayer's permeability. After the 4 hour incubation, cellviability and the content of FITC in the collection wells can bedetermined. For the FITC content, the media in the collection well iscollected and fluorescence of the media determined at 480 nm (Em) whenexcited at 520 nm. Percent permeability and percent change in comparisonto the non-treated controls can be determined by the followingequations: Percent Permeability=((Mean Ex/Em of test sample)/Mean Ex/Emuntreated control)*100; Percent Change=Percent Permeability of testsample−Percent Permeability of untreated control.

Production of Hyaluronic Acid—Changes in the production of hyaluronicacid in human dermal fibroblasts due to each of the active ingredients,any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification can be measured. HA is apolysaccharide involved in stabilization of the structure of the matrixand is involved in providing turgor pressure to tissue and cells. As onenon-limiting example, HA production in treated and non-treated adulthuman dermal fibroblasts (HDFa) cells can be determined using theHyaluronan DuoSet ELISA kit from R&D Systems (DY3614). In this assay,for production of samples, subconfluent HDFa cells from CascadeBiologics (C-13-5C) are incubated at 37° C. and 10% CO₂ in starvationmedium (0.15% fetal bovine serum and 1% Penicillin Streptomycin solutionin Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium) for 72 hours prior to treatment.The cells are then incubated with fresh starvation medium with eithertest compound, positive control (phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate fromSigma-Aldrich (P1585) and platelet derived growth factor fromSigma-Aldrich (P3201)), or no additive for 24 hours. Media is thencollected and frozen at −80° C. until use in the ELISA assay.

Briefly, the ELISA assay employs a quantitative sandwich enzymeimmunoassay technique whereby a capture antibody specific for HA can bepre-coated onto a microplate. Standards and media from treated anduntreated cells are pipetted into the microplate wells to enable any HApresent to be bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing away anyunbound substances, an enzyme-linked detection antibody specific for HAis added to the wells. Following a wash to remove any unboundantibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution is added to the wells toallow color development in proportion to the amount of HA bound in theinitial step. The color development is stopped at a specific time andthe intensity of the color at 450 nm can be measured using a microplatereader.

Inhibition of Hyaluronidase Activity—Changes in the activity ofhyaluronidase due to each of the active ingredients, any one of thecombination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification can be measured. Hyaluronidase is anenzyme that degrades HA. HA is a polysaccharide involved instabilization of the structure of the matrix and is involved inproviding turgor pressure to tissue and cells. As one non-limitingexample, hyaluronidase activity can be determined using an in vitroprotocol modified from Sigma-Aldrich protocol #EC 3.2.1.35. Briefly,hyaluronidase type 1-S from Sigma-Aldrich (H3506) is added to microplatereaction wells containing test compound or controls. Tannic acid can beused as a positive control inhibitor, no test compound can be added forthe control enzyme, and wells with test compound or positive control butwithout hyaluronidase can be used as a background negative control. Thewells are incubated at 37° C. for 10 minutes before addition ofsubstrate (HA). Substrate is added and the reactions incubated at 37° C.for 45 minutes. A portion of each reaction solution is then transferredto and gently mixed in a solution of sodium acetate and acetic acid pH3.75 to stop that portion of the reaction (stopped wells). The stoppedwells and the reaction wells should both contain the same volume ofsolution after addition of the portion of the reaction solution to thestopped wells. Both the reaction wells and the stopped wells areincubated for 10 minutes at room temperature. Absorbance at 600 nm isthen measured for both the reaction wells and the stopped wells.Inhibition can be calculated using the following formulas: Inhibitor (orcontrol) activity=(Inhibitor stopped wells absorbance at 600nm−inhibitor reaction wells absorbance at 600 nm); Initialactivity=control enzyme absorbance at 600 nm; PercentInhibition=[(Initial activity/Inhibitor Activity)*100]−100.

Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated Receptor Gamma (PPAR-γ)Activity—Changes in the activity of PPAR-γ due to each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification can be measured.PPAR-γ is a receptor critical for the production of sebum. As onenon-limiting example, the activity of PPAR-γ can be determined using abioassay that analyzes the ability of a test compound or composition toinhibit binding of a ligand. Briefly, fluorescent small-moleculepan-PPAR ligand, FLUORMONE™ Pan-PPAR Green, available from LifeTechnologies (PV4894), can be used to determine if test compounds orcompositions are able to inhibit binding of the ligand to PPAR-γ. Thesamples wells include PPAR-γ and fluorescent ligand and either: testcompound or composition (test); a reference inhibitor, rosiglitazone(positive control); or no test compound (negative control). The wellsare incubated for a set period of time to allow the ligand opportunityto bind the PPAR-γ. The fluorescence polarization of each sample wellcan then be measured and compared to the negative control well todetermine the percentage of inhibition by the test compound orcomposition.

All of the compositions and/or methods disclosed and claimed herein canbe made and executed without undue experimentation in light of thepresent disclosure. While the compositions and methods of this inventionhave been described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will beapparent to those of skill in the art that variations may be applied tothe compositions and/or methods and in the steps or in the sequence ofsteps of the method described herein without departing from the concept,spirit and scope of the invention. More specifically, it will beapparent that certain agents which are both chemically andphysiologically related may be substituted for the agents describedherein while the same or similar results would be achieved. All suchsimilar substitutes and modifications apparent to those skilled in theart are deemed to be within the spirit, scope and concept of theinvention as defined by the appended claims.

REFERENCES

The following references, to the extent that they provide exemplaryprocedural or other details supplementary to those set forth herein, arespecifically incorporated herein by reference.

-   Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Edition, CTFA, 1982-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fourth edition, CTFA,    1991-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Tenth    Edition, CTFA, 2004-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Twelfth    Edition, CTFA, 2008

1. A method of reducing oxidative damage of skin comprising applying tooxidant damaged skin a topical composition comprising oligopeptide-1 andniacinamide, wherein the combination of oligopeptide-1 and niacinamidereduces oxidative damage in the skin, and wherein the oligopeptide-1comprises the sequence of caprooyl-Gly-His-Lys-Lys.
 2. The method ofclaim 1, wherein the oligopeptide-1 further inhibits tyrosinase,increases production of elastin, stimulates collagen production orsecretion, or inhibits TNF-α; and niacinamide further inhibitsmelanogenesis.
 3. The method of claim 1, wherein the topical compositionis applied to the skin daily.
 4. The method of claim 1, wherein thetopical composition comprises 0.0000001 to 0.01% by weight ofoligopeptide-1 and 0.001 to 3% by weight of niacinamide.
 5. The methodof claim 4, wherein the topical composition is formulated as a sunscreenand further comprises 5 to 15% by weight of homosalate, 1 to 10% byweight each of ethylhexyl salicylate and oxybenzone, 0.1 to 10% byweight each of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and octocrylene, 0.1 to 5%by weight each of dicapryl carbonate, dimethicone, ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, cetearyl alcohol, andceteareth-25, 0.01 to 3% by weight each of disodium ethylene dicocamidePEG-15 disulfate, silica, and caprylyl glycol, and 0.01 to 1% by weighteach of bisabolol, and tocopheryl acetate.
 6. The method of claim 4,wherein the topical composition is formulated as a day moisturizer andfurther comprises 10 to 15% by weight of isopropyl palmitate and 0.1 to10% by weight each of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, butyleneglycol, glycerine, methyl trimethicone, silica, mica, ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, lauryl PEG-9polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, isostearyl neopentanoate, cetylphosphate, and triethanolamine. The method of claim 4, wherein thecomposition is formulated as a night moisturizer and further comprises0.01 to 15% by weight of dimethicone, 0.01 to 10% by weight ofisohexadecane, 0.1 to 10% by weight of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate,and 0.01 to 5% by weight each of caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearylalcohol, glyceryl stearate, butylene glycol, and hydroxyacetophenone. 8.The method of claim 4, wherein the topical composition is formulated asa cleanser and comprises 0.1 to 10% by weight each of acrylatescopolymer, cocoamidopropyl betaine, propanediol, and PPG-2-hydroxyethylcoco/isostearamide, and 0.01 to 1% by weight each of Copernicia cerifera(Carnauba) wax, sodium chloride, and lactose.
 9. The method of claim 4,wherein the topical composition is formulated as a foundation andfurther comprises 20 to 40% by weight of cyclopentasiloxane and 1 to 15%by weight each of titanium dioxide, butylene glycol, PEG-9 dimethicone,trimethylsiloxysilicate, lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylatecrosspolymer, PEG/PPG-20/15 dimethicone, magnesium sulfate, andpolymethylsilsesquioxane.
 10. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition is an emulsion.
 11. The method of claim 1, wherein theemulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
 12. The method of claim 1, whereinthe composition is a cream or lotion.
 13. The method of claim 1, whereinthe composition is a gel.
 14. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition is a solution.
 15. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition comprises 25 to 98% by weight of water.
 16. The method ofclaim 1, wherein the oxidant damage skin comprises a fine line orwrinkle.